Albert Porters after market panzerholz plinths

Hi Tellefsen

Since your experimenting with stillpoints - recommend u try 3 directly under the sp10 chassis. I was in your position a year ago.

Cheers

Tellefsen Having read your comment's regarding your direct drive table I can emphatically say there is a leap in performance going to panzerholz material. Soft slate I have no working experience with.

Think about this for a moment.

Why would Albert Porter or anyone else for that matter go to all that extra expense and difficulties working with panzerholz when other common material is so easily available anywhere and much , much cheaper.
Personally with all the work involved and cutting bit resharpen bills I don't thick Albert is making much profit at all with his line of panzerholz plinths.
So for those that think Porter is using panzerholz material only to justify his prices you are mistaken.

Panzerholz works and works exceptionally well for bolting a direct drive table to it.

You may have read comments here and there from sceptical penny pinching DIYers on a shoe string budget that boo hoo panzerholz.
All of it totally unfounded.

With all do respect for Raul and his clever idea to use a direct drive without a conventional plinth as most of us know it.
Direct drives are very sensitive to what they are sitting in and on , I understand this clearly as does Raul.

I prefer a conventional plinth with pivoting arm boards myself.
Halcro and all the other great guys using their direct drives nude have good reasons to love it.

In_Shore's comments regarding the merits of a good and proper plinth are spot on.

The reason to build a solid plinth is to calm the excessive vibration from the SP 10's and the Garrard 301 or Lenco for that matter, since they generate a huge amount of torque that causes resonances. This torque is the curse and blessing of a DD or Idler design, because they sound so dynamic. If you can reduce the vibration, you are left with wonderful dynamics.

A well designed plinth stabilizes the operating platform by adding different types of mass to minimize the problem of different resonances.

Concurrently, a good power supply attacks the problem from a different direction by providing a good clean sine wave, that once again makes the powerful drive system behave more efficiently and smoother with less vibration.

The better the plinth design, the less the vibrations that cause resonance, which blur micro detail.The combination of a well engineered plinth and good power supply also lowers the noise floor enhancing the cartridges ability to dig out detail.

I currently use a Technics Sp 10 and a Garrard 301, both in panzerholst bases, that would not deliver the level of sound they do without the plinth. I not saying panzerholst is the only solution, slate is an elegant solution as well, but the common dominator is intelligently adding mass to damp resonant frequencies. I tried the Garrard with 2 different light weight plinths with disastrous results. It was only after I heard a Technics SP 10 in a Panzerholst plinth at Albert Porter's home, did I realize doing this on the cheap doesn't work!

Enough said. These are my experiences and I know others feel differently and I respect their opinions, but politely disagree.

In_Shore's comments regarding the merits of a good and proper plinth are spot on.

The reason to build a solid plinth is to calm the excessive vibration from the SP 10's and the Garrard 301 or Lenco for that matter, since they generate a huge amount of torque that causes resonances. This torque is the curse and blessing of a DD or Idler design, because they sound so dynamic. If you can reduce the vibration, you are left with wonderful dynamics.

A well designed plinth stabilizes the operating platform by adding different types of mass to minimize the problem of different resonances.

Concurrently, a good power supply attacks the problem from a different direction by providing a good clean sine wave, that once again makes the powerful drive system behave more efficiently and smoother with less vibration.

The better the plinth design, the less the vibrations that cause resonance, which blur micro detail.The combination of a well engineered plinth and good power supply also lowers the noise floor enhancing the cartridges ability to dig out detail.

I currently use a Technics Sp 10 and a Garrard 301, both in panzerholst bases, that would not deliver the level of sound they do without the plinth. I not saying panzerholst is the only solution, slate is an elegant solution as well, but the common dominator is intelligently adding mass to damp resonant frequencies. I tried the Garrard with 2 different light weight plinths with disastrous results. It was only after I heard a Technics SP 10 in a Panzerholst plinth at Albert Porter's home, did I realize doing this on the cheap doesn't work!

Enough said. These are my experiences and I know others feel differently and I respect their opinions, but politely disagree.

I appreciate all the good comments. My current plinth is the SH-10B3. I do have some Stillpoints on the way as well as Walker Valid points and Mapleshade triple points to try under my current plinth.
I suppose my thoughts are that any of the alternate plinths to be consider (aside from nude) are custom built products. So however I might arrive at a decision on which alternate plinth to try, it amounts to a leap of faith on a non-returnable product..So the opinions of those you trust who have walked the same path are valuable to consider. Thanks