Am I wasting money on the theory of Bi-amping?

One of the reasons some high end manufacturers don't offer bi-wiring/biamping capability is because it means that those who don't use the facility end up having to use jumpers to connect the two sets of speaker terminals.

Bi-wiring/amping introduces a whole lot of extra complexity - double the cable runs, possibly the use of splitters etc.

Personally, I prefer the approach of just buying a better amp - preferably a pair of monblocs.

I believe that you get value from bi-amping speakers that are designed to be bi-amped and have a proper complimentary crossover- preferably made by the speaker manufacturer for that particular set of speakers. 

Because there are so many variables in "complex" amplification I'd start by listening to the above before you buy.

I recently bought a set of Bryston Model Ts. I listened to them bi-amped with a matching crossover. They sounded wonderful.  When I got them home my ARC VT130 couldn't keep up with the speaker's demands at higher volume and the bass was a bit mushier than when they were bi-amped.  I bought Bryston's crossover and a pair of their solid state 7B's to drive the woofers and I drive the mids/tweets with my ARC tube amp. Viola! They sounded as good (actually a little better thanks to the tube amp) as they did in the retailer's listening room.

Moral of the story: Listen before you buy and be prepared to spend a lot more money than you hoped to get it just right. I've got my wife and car up for sale now to recover the added costs of bi-amping. 

Some of us kind of do it already with an addition of a sub-woofer. We also have enjoyed the time, expense and fun this can be to get it right.

As far as waste of time, you will never know yourself if this is BS or not.

Clarification.

1, You stated, "I'm USING two identical amps in a vertical bi-amp configuration."  Sounds like you are already doing it. ???  Which stage of this are you?

2.  You mentioned the Internal Crossover.  You should Not have to touch the internal crossover.  Are you thinking of Active Biamping?  If so, Stop.  You will be defeating all the reasons you chose those speakers.  A Whole different very ugly animal.

I would suggest Bi Wiring first.  You are going to need these cables anyway for your Biamp endeavors. If your speakers are not biwireable, you're full stop.  Or you have to Make your speakers biwireable.  Then buy and install another amp.

I incline to view Avanti1960’s favorably, as it matches my own experience.  This is what we are calling ‘passive biwiring’.  Panzerwagen states unequivocally that “the unused half of he signal is just turned into heat”. But is that really all that’s happening?  If so, why have Avanti and I heard benefits from using this technique with separable passive crossovers in our speakers?  Maybe the passive HPF presents the amp an easier load with less back EMF, allowing it to more optimally drive the MR and tweeter….

Done right, bi-amping can be effective in optimizing loads between drivers.  Not to be confused with b-wiring, which is horse poop.