Amp Shutting Down, need help


I have a Cary 7.250 brand new amp that shuts down after 20 seconds in my NYC apartment. I have sent the unit back to Cary where it tests fine. I have tried the unit at my friend’s apartment and his place of work and it works fine. The unit is 100% in working order. After talking to many people I was told to attach a 50' extension cord and low and behold it worked.

The good news is that I have a dedicated 20amp circuit to this outlet. My voltage reads 118 volts and Cary said that is not a problem as the unit will work between 90 and 130 volts. I have tested for voltage on the negative lead to ground and there is no stray voltage. I have also tried the unit on other outlets in the apartment and the same problem occurs.

My mono blocks and all other components work just fine. So I’d love to hear suggestions as to how to get rid of this 50’ extension cord?

Thanks in advance.
sailcappy
Is the Brick Wall Surge protector something that should be installed prior to the SR Power cell or just after the SR Power Cell and the Cary? Right now I have two plugs on my outlet one goes to the SR Powercell (which has my OPPO, Theta Pre-Pro, 2 Red Dragons, Runco and Sonos) and the other goes to the JL Sub.
I had been envisioning that the Brick Wall would replace the Power Cell altogether, if it in fact solves the problem. It would plug into the wall outlet, and (assuming that you purchase the 8 outlet version) everything else would plug into it (aside from the JL sub, if its current requirements and those of everything else total up to exceed or to be uncomfortably close to the Brick Wall's 15A rating).

There would be no harm, though, in experimenting with other configurations that utilize both the Brick Wall and the Power Cell, with the amplifier powered via the Brick Wall and some or all of the other components powered via the Power Cell.

Regards,
-- Al
Cappy, I was under the impression that Brick Wall was merely *another* recommendation for your Cary's situation, just like the DC blocker, and to be used solely with the Cary *if* either device resolved its power-up problem. I would continue to use the SR for everything else, excluding the sub.

Where will the Cary be located vs. all of your other upstream equipment? Was *everything* intended to run off the new 20 amp circuit (amp, sub, pre/proc, etc)? Just trying to envision your layout.

I'm surprised you're not waiting for your friend Ken to test the AC with an O-scope rather than gamble on money spent that may not address the Cary's issue. To Ralph's point about slowing down the inrush current, regarding a sensitive mag-breaker, I would have thought the SR would've provided some amount by design, including some level of DC blocking, though unsure about the DC.

See what the DC blocker does first, when feeding the Cary directly, since you bought it already.

Frank
Currently I have a dual outlet connected to a 20amp circuit. That circuit is shared by one other outlet in my apartment. I plug the SR Powercell into one of the slots and my JL sub into the other one. All my other equipment is plugged into the SR Powercell.

My plan is to first keep the same power path for everything and put the DC blocker between the SR Powercell and the Cary Amp. I might also try to put it between the SR Powercell and the wall outlet. Stray DC should be bad for all my other components, right?

If all this fails I will then sell this DC blocker to anyone who wants it on AG. I will then try the Brick Wall and play with the same signal paths as the DC Blocker.

Does this sound like a plan?

Ken is gone on vacation for a few weeks so I will try these solutions as they are not a real budget buster. If they don't work I can always sell them.

Finally if none of these suggestions work I will try to work with someone who can help me re-configure the current 15 amp circuit breaker with something that is less sensitive to inrush current. It will probably void my Cary warrantee but I can’t have this extension cord in my living room anymore.
Sounds like a plan to me, except that my instinct would be to avoid configurations in which the Brick Wall and the Power Cell are used in series. If you are using both, have them both plugged directly into the wall.

Also, given the small difference in price between the two versions of the Brick Wall, I think it would make sense to get the 8-outlet version. That would give you the flexibility to experiment with what gets powered from where.

Regards,
-- Al
Sailcappy, I am really sold on the idea that the breaker is at fault. Have you been using it as a power switch? Or is the amplifier designed with it being the power switch?

Either way what I would do is replace the breaker... troubleshooting from a distance is always tricky, but we can be very sure that the solution has to do with the inrush current on the power transformers.