Amp Shutting Down, need help

Cappy, I was under the impression that Brick Wall was merely *another* recommendation for your Cary's situation, just like the DC blocker, and to be used solely with the Cary *if* either device resolved its power-up problem. I would continue to use the SR for everything else, excluding the sub.

Where will the Cary be located vs. all of your other upstream equipment? Was *everything* intended to run off the new 20 amp circuit (amp, sub, pre/proc, etc)? Just trying to envision your layout.

I'm surprised you're not waiting for your friend Ken to test the AC with an O-scope rather than gamble on money spent that may not address the Cary's issue. To Ralph's point about slowing down the inrush current, regarding a sensitive mag-breaker, I would have thought the SR would've provided some amount by design, including some level of DC blocking, though unsure about the DC.

See what the DC blocker does first, when feeding the Cary directly, since you bought it already.

Frank

Currently I have a dual outlet connected to a 20amp circuit. That circuit is shared by one other outlet in my apartment. I plug the SR Powercell into one of the slots and my JL sub into the other one. All my other equipment is plugged into the SR Powercell.

My plan is to first keep the same power path for everything and put the DC blocker between the SR Powercell and the Cary Amp. I might also try to put it between the SR Powercell and the wall outlet. Stray DC should be bad for all my other components, right?

If all this fails I will then sell this DC blocker to anyone who wants it on AG. I will then try the Brick Wall and play with the same signal paths as the DC Blocker.

Does this sound like a plan?

Ken is gone on vacation for a few weeks so I will try these solutions as they are not a real budget buster. If they don't work I can always sell them.

Finally if none of these suggestions work I will try to work with someone who can help me re-configure the current 15 amp circuit breaker with something that is less sensitive to inrush current. It will probably void my Cary warrantee but I can’t have this extension cord in my living room anymore.

Sounds like a plan to me, except that my instinct would be to avoid configurations in which the Brick Wall and the Power Cell are used in series. If you are using both, have them both plugged directly into the wall.

Also, given the small difference in price between the two versions of the Brick Wall, I think it would make sense to get the 8-outlet version. That would give you the flexibility to experiment with what gets powered from where.

Regards,
-- Al

Sailcappy, I am really sold on the idea that the breaker is at fault. Have you been using it as a power switch? Or is the amplifier designed with it being the power switch?

Either way what I would do is replace the breaker... troubleshooting from a distance is always tricky, but we can be very sure that the solution has to do with the inrush current on the power transformers.

08-24-12: Atmasphere
"Sailcappy, I am really sold on the idea that the breaker is at fault. Have you been using it as a power switch? Or is the amplifier designed with it being the power switch?"

Based on the mag-breaker's rear location, the amp's remote-trigger feature, and front-actuated Power/Standby pushbutton switch, it's intended as an "actuate-and-leave it" protection device. Although, with all his troubleshooting prior to and well after Cary's diagnostic testing, that particular mag-breaker has probably been subjected to several dozens of set/trip cycles. Certain internal electro-mechanical aspects could be deteriorating, though lacking the component's specs/data information, and additional dianostic measurements, it's an educated assertion - something most experienced techs would investigate in any applicable field of electronics.

If the two filter options fail to resolve your issue, I wonder if Cary would sell you a replacement breaker. Is your skillset up to changing that component (which *should* be a breeze), or maybe your friend could do it rather than sending the amp back? Even if Cary won't sell you one, the component's mfr info/PN is probably still available on the breaker's body once it's accessed within the amp (possibly by removing the bottom panel) - thus likely availability unless a custom-spec'd option.

Frank