AR-XB. Is it worth a new motor?

I recently purchased an AR-XB for $200 from a gentleman who was selling it for an estate of the original owner. It looked great. I did everything but plug it in as he assured me it only needed a new belt. When I got home, the motor would not turn, although I could feel it humming under my finger. Unfortunately, I bought the tt in Pittsburgh while visiting my son. I hand carried it in its original box as a carry on back to Washington state. My question is, should I bite the bullet for a new $200 motor from Vinyl Nirvana, or chalk it up to experience and move on? Now I know some of you would spend more than that on the wiring for the tonearm, but that's a bit of money for my habit given my finances. The rest of the system is Mac 2100, Mac C26, Acoustat Spectra 1100, Audiolab 6000cdt, Audiolab M+DAC, MIT interconnects. Jazz, acoustic, bluegrass, Americana and vintage rock are what I listen to. Oh, and I have  brandy new Ortofon Super OM 20 I was going to use. My back-up table is a Sony PS-LX5.


If the motor is humming, and the motor shaft spins freely then it's likely the phase-shift capacitor/resistor assembly in need of replacement, and not the motor itself.  This is an AC synchronous motor, with the simplest of control circuitry.  I'd guess around $5 in parts and a bit of soldering.  

No it is not. In it's day the AR XA was a revelation. It blew away all those idler drive tables with it's suspension and belt drive. It's only major failing was a tonearm without an anti skate mechanism. In the day when Edgar Villchur designed it most arms did not have an anti skate mechanism. With todays cartridges an anti skate mechanism is mandatory. The XB did not remedy the problem and by then cartridges like the Shure V15 came along which could be ruined by that arm. It is extremely difficult to change arms on that table because the mass of the arm has to be identical or the suspension will not work properly. I'm sorry to report this, I'm afraid you got screwed. If $200 is the most you get stung for in this life you are incredibly lucky. 

I was gonna say, it might not be the motor, something else.

just hopping about, found this parts listing (no motor)


I would not use an arm with no anti-skate as mentioned above.

What Palasr said. Replace that capacitor. There’s probably enough friction at the pivot to provide some natural anti-skate. 


IMO, this time you are giving bad advice.

I forget where, but I have read a few places:

The MAJORITY of stylus’s are WORN on ONE EDGE ONLY.

That is from poorly set ANTI-SKATE.

Thus, the MAJORITY of people’s TTs have anti-skate set IMPROPERLY.

Relying on some friction from the bearing is no way accurate. All tonearms I have messed with for over 50 years definitely skate in with anti-skate set to zero. ALL

Let’s not forget, the modern advanced stylus many of us use need to be precisely aligned for their potential performance and avoiding both groove wear (damage) and stylus wear, a progressively important actor for expensive MC cartridges.

You do not get the extended life of an advanced stylus unless everything is proper:

anti-skate zero until it is the last step: overhang, two null points, azimuth and VTA and tracking force, last: anti-skate. Check tracking weight and anti-skate every few months.

No dust cover: you gotta be kidding me.

I highly recommend using the blank side of an alignment LP, and simply see skate and set anti-skate force visually


Oh Yeah: sometimes we are hesitant to fully tighten the two screws holding the cartridge. Double check overhang/null points after a few months, moved a speck? or where you put it?