Audio Research D-90


Hi,
I just bought a A.R.D-90 and there is a hum in the right channel.I reversed the inter-connects and still in the right side.I switched the 12ax7's for 12au7's and it got louder.Any ideas or insight? Bill
houseofsound
Hifigeek1,
Thanks for your help.Your right,there are a couple sockets that could be tighter. I got this amp at a good price and I new I'd have work to do on it. My wife likes when I buy fixxer-uppers.She figures if I'm fixxing one I'm not out buying a new one. Leaves her more money to spend on shoes. Thanks to all of you out there for your input. Please keep it coming.I need all the help I can get.I'm one of those that is pretty handy but a master of nothing.Bill
Houseofsound, Does your amp have the white body relay located near the main bank of filter caps? Let me know as I can contact the factory and get a bit of info for you. If your amp is sans relay no worries. G
Relay had crudy contacts 0n mine - burnished contacts,Cramolined and ordered a new one - which I plan to leave taped to my chassis to remind myself that this is something to replace next time I have the covers off ( which i hope is a year or two).
BTW -ARC has made up a replacement cap plus mount for these amps that is pretty cool - they've attached a new and very probably superior cap to a sled that fits right into the holes in the board the old caps mounted to - mechanically this has to be a better way of doing it than the way we did mine -downside is cost - $60 per cap ( X 8 in a 90B).This will probably look more "stock" and also be a lot more rugged in terms of shipping the amp - not important to me - definitely a YMMV situation.
One of the reasons I purchased this particular amp was I knew it's service history - sold new by a friend of mine - owned by a lawyer who used it - but didn't tube roll - sockets where in good shape . Hate replacing tube sockets - so not much interested in units that have been rolled a lot.
Houseforsound - contact me if you'd like my old caps - I will keep one as a sort of reference - but you could have the other 7 if you want them - remember - these are almost 30 year old caps - they're not treasures. Even if tested with a standard cap tester - you really aren't going to know if they're "good". If you know someone with one of the big time ( big bucks) cap analysisers (spl?) (Sencore)- that would be able to tell what kind of shape your (or my) caps are in.Standard cap testers basically will tell you if the caps shot - but not much else.
Also - look into a solder sucker - you're going to need it to get those caps out of the board.
HifiGeek1,
Did not find relay you described. I beleive my amp is a D-90(revised). Here is my reasoning: I got some print outs with pic.s from www.arcdb.ws.The info is limeted but acording to there info the D-90takes 9-6550's8+1,4-12ax7's,2-6fq7's,2-12at7's. The D-90b Takes 8-5881's,1-6550's,1-12ax7,and 5-6922's The revised D-90 takes 8-5881's or 6l6's,1-6550,4-12ax7's,2-12at7's,2-6fq7's. This is the tube setup mine has. Also the print out i have from the web sight shows pic's of the D-90 and D90b. The D-90b has 8 cans,where the D-90 has 9 can caps.My amp has 9 also. The face plate states it is a D-90. There is no (R) after so it could be someone down the line put the cheeper tubes in. This I don't know,but would like to find out. So my freinds,I'm just asuming and we all know what asuming is the mother of!What do you all think of my reasoning?
Stonedeaf,
I would love to have your caps. let me know what you need. There's a guy here in town that is retired Mc sevice tech. I talked to him and he seid he'd check them for me but he'll charge me a 6 pack of miller and a pack of smokes.But if his wife see's the beer and cigs. the deals off.Some guy's sure know how to pick um:)My email is marysbikerman@yahoo.com Thanks,Bill
Just so you know the old caps may be twist-lock-lytics. If that is the case I usually replace them. You can usually read a date code off of them to see when they were manufactured. Twist-lock caps have a high degree of ESR or equivalent series resistance. Even though the cap might say 300mfd on the can, because of high internal resistance it will act in circuit more like a 150mfd cap. They are unwilling to give up their charge easily. The average life of a filter cap depending of course on usage, age, and temperature exposure is approx. 15-20 yrs. If the amp sat unused for years that will shorten the life of a capacitor as well. After 15-20 yrs. of use they tend to get muddy in the bass and I replace them as the slurry they use in the process of manufacturing dries out. They can internally heat up and begin to leak. The material that leaks out is caustic, conductive, and can damage the circuit board if not removed in a timely fashion. The one place you want a low source impedance is in your power supply. The caps that now come from ARC as described by Stonedeaf are low ESR types and a clever little circuit board on them that adapts the new style computer grade electrolytics to the old circuit board footprint and they drop right in. This makes a nice very nice improvement in sound and especially the bottom end and transient performance. The amp is capable of sounding better then when it was new because when this amp was built these low ESR caps did not exhist! If I get a chance I will look at a D90 circuit diagram and see if there are other areas you need to check i.e. zener diode strings in the voltage regulator to make sure the regulator is running at proper voltage etc. Off hand I don't remember the circuit. G