Relay had crudy contacts 0n mine - burnished contacts,Cramolined and ordered a new one - which I plan to leave taped to my chassis to remind myself that this is something to replace next time I have the covers off ( which i hope is a year or two).
BTW -ARC has made up a replacement cap plus mount for these amps that is pretty cool - they've attached a new and very probably superior cap to a sled that fits right into the holes in the board the old caps mounted to - mechanically this has to be a better way of doing it than the way we did mine -downside is cost - $60 per cap ( X 8 in a 90B).This will probably look more "stock" and also be a lot more rugged in terms of shipping the amp - not important to me - definitely a YMMV situation.
One of the reasons I purchased this particular amp was I knew it's service history - sold new by a friend of mine - owned by a lawyer who used it - but didn't tube roll - sockets where in good shape . Hate replacing tube sockets - so not much interested in units that have been rolled a lot.
Houseforsound - contact me if you'd like my old caps - I will keep one as a sort of reference - but you could have the other 7 if you want them - remember - these are almost 30 year old caps - they're not treasures. Even if tested with a standard cap tester - you really aren't going to know if they're "good". If you know someone with one of the big time ( big bucks) cap analysisers (spl?) (Sencore)- that would be able to tell what kind of shape your (or my) caps are in.Standard cap testers basically will tell you if the caps shot - but not much else.
Also - look into a solder sucker - you're going to need it to get those caps out of the board.
BTW -ARC has made up a replacement cap plus mount for these amps that is pretty cool - they've attached a new and very probably superior cap to a sled that fits right into the holes in the board the old caps mounted to - mechanically this has to be a better way of doing it than the way we did mine -downside is cost - $60 per cap ( X 8 in a 90B).This will probably look more "stock" and also be a lot more rugged in terms of shipping the amp - not important to me - definitely a YMMV situation.
One of the reasons I purchased this particular amp was I knew it's service history - sold new by a friend of mine - owned by a lawyer who used it - but didn't tube roll - sockets where in good shape . Hate replacing tube sockets - so not much interested in units that have been rolled a lot.
Houseforsound - contact me if you'd like my old caps - I will keep one as a sort of reference - but you could have the other 7 if you want them - remember - these are almost 30 year old caps - they're not treasures. Even if tested with a standard cap tester - you really aren't going to know if they're "good". If you know someone with one of the big time ( big bucks) cap analysisers (spl?) (Sencore)- that would be able to tell what kind of shape your (or my) caps are in.Standard cap testers basically will tell you if the caps shot - but not much else.
Also - look into a solder sucker - you're going to need it to get those caps out of the board.