Best Solder

I'm a little confused. What is the best solder? Johnson IA-423 (John Manufacturing), wbt or cardas? I'm about to start a project and the audio community experience would help. I was going to use cardas, but the Johnson has a high silver content (6.5% or so and no lead) and I've been told the wbt is a little more forward compared to cardas.
I'm posting again since somehow this didn't go through....

So my following comments will complement some of the above notes.

Some silver containing solders require higher temperatures to melt. This can be an inconvenience specially working on printed circuits or surface mounted. There is a risk of overheating deformation or desoldering adjacent parts. In the case of cable and interconnects there can be oxidation and insulation damage.
I prefer to work with eutectic low melting point solder and do a good physical bonding (eg wire metal) between the conductors and then secure it with the solder. Cleanliness and good preparation of parts to be soldered is needed for a quality job.

Working with lead solder requires common sense : wash your hands properly after using it. Better yet use protective latex gloves ultra cheap and safe. This material to affect you has to be inside your body, in other words it doesn't jump at you and kills you. The normal hygiene practices are enough to work with the material properly.

Eutectic solder has a single temperature for melting and not a range. A non eutectic one behaves as follows: part of it starts to melt earlier and others after, likewise to solidify the same happens but in reverse order so it's slower to work and maintains more stress upon solidification that later might yield a broken soldedered part. Eutectic provides in my experience better and more important more reproducible results.
The use of a variable power soldering instrument is desirable to avoid working with too hot an iron and this way lessen damage chance.

Eutectic Sn/PB 63/37 melts at 361 F.

WBT types : Sn/Pb/Ag 62/36/2 melting range 354-372 F

One key point to remember solder has to melt, wet properly and after that solidify with the minimum stress. This requires a couple of overlooked things
1- Heat just enough and with power/soldering tip acording to size of parts to be soldered. i.e. larger pieces require more wattage iron and larger tip.

2- If you overheat the solder will "dance" over the overheated parts and not settle.

3- To avoid stress avoid sudden cooling by blowing air directly to the recently applied solder. That doesn't allow enough time for proper wetting/distribution of material.

4- Use rosin based flux not acid flux containing solders.

Hope this is helpful and not confusing

No lead, it's just flux vapors. Good ventilation in the area needed but no draft hitting directly the working area since heating will be more difficult.
No it doesn't but the flux smoke is toxic so proper ventillation is required.
I've read two variations on a single suggestion that appear to minimize risk of overheating the component and that purport to avoid a cold joint. My understanding follows, but I'm not sure I've got it right: apply the tip of the iron to about 1mm to 2mm of solder between the tip and the junction of the lead and trace; and as the solder instantly melts apply the iron tip to the junction of lead and trace and the tip of the solder to the junction of the lead, trace and instantly melted solder (not to the tip of the solder wire) and melt the amount of solder you need.

Am I understanding this right and do you recommend this technique? Does it avoid fried components?

Thanks again, Jeff