Best Tonearm and Cartridge for 4K or under for restored Garrard 301


I have a good set up for digital audio and would like to venture into analog audio. My digital set up is
Cary DMS600 -> Cary SLP05 -> Cary CAD211FE -> KEF Blade. I love the sound!

My first and only TT is a Thorens TD126 with TP16 tonearm and TMC60 MC -> PPA990 and phono stage is Cary PH302.

I bough an old Garrard 301. Planning to get it restored by Jim Campbell. Have a slate plinth. Now I am looking for a tonearm and cartridge that will justify my set up. I am thinking 4K. I could go lower or higher depending on the feedback, cost/value. I am looking for a good bargain. If I don't like it, I can easily sell it without much loss. I listen to classical, jazz, rock, indian music. 

I have never setup a tonearm before. But I looked extensively on the internet and Michael Fremer's how to set up videos. I understand all the different angles, VTA, SRA, Azimuth, Zenith. 

Looks like Michael likes Kuzma 4PT, I liked his review of the tonearm.
I am also looking at linear trackers like Transfi Terminator.
Woody, Triplaner Mk VII, SME 3012R, SME 312, Ortofon RS 309D, Dynavector DV 505/ 507, Reed 3P, Stogi reference, FR 64S, FR 64 FX, Sumiko 800.

kanchi647
@millercarbon  Thanks! I will stay away from linear trackers then. I am a newbie to analog but quick leaner. Their selling point seems soo obvious, but will stay away. 
Can you pls elaborate on the One continuous wire from cartridge clip to RCAs.. The thorens I have needs no set up except tracking force and anti-skating. Then I use RCA cable from back of the TT to PPA990. 

@solypsa Please help with tonearm and cart combos with SLP05. Thanks!

@sdrsdrsdr it took me a while to understand the difference between idler wheel vs DD vs belt drive. Mine is a grease bearing 301 as well. Please suggest good combos for the 301. 

I am looking for low compliance high mass tone arm as everyone suggests for the 301.

@sdrsdrsdr Thanks for the tips about Indian music. Which TT does he use? Pls explain why the Lyra is not good? I am trying to learn and understand. Demo is a problem as I live in rural area. I live in Wheelersburg, OH. I am happy to travel to demo stuff if anyone is willing to show me. 
I am looking for low compliance high mass tone arm as everyone suggests for the 301.


Used Ikeda IT-345 and Fidelity-Research FR64s are the best you can get! They are probably the highest mass tonearms ever (over 30g). FR-64fx with W-250 counterweight and headshell integrated cartridges like SPU or FR7 series is an excellent high mass tonearm, with lighter stock counterweight and conventional headshell the mass of FX version is much lighter. Ikeda and FR are the best for the money, definitely (if you need high mass high-end tonearm).

For much lower price you can look for Thomas Schick "12 inch

Reed from your list can’t be higher than 19g as far as i know (for "12 inch version with Cocobolo which i have).

P.S. Kuzma and Triplanar are not high mass tonearms!

And you can't change the mass with Kuzma, because you can't change a "headshell". 
@chakster which TT do you use? Thanks for all the suggestions and combos. I will start looking for them on hifishark
I have gone down this route. I have a restored Thorens TD124 and Garrard 301 rimless grease bearing. First, I echo Millercarbon and Chakster, though I lack the experience Chakster has with a wide range of arms. I have two Reed 3P's. There is nothing more important than an arm that is easy to set up. Reed supplies levers for each and every adjustment. Loosen a knob, adjust a lever, and bang, you're done. Reed has a unique design on the bearing assembly which is not quite a bearing assembly. 
News flash-despite the success, the Fremer Video-which I own-is so basic that it is practically useless. Properly setting up a table is not like watching a Youtube video to learn how to replace a cartridge valve in a faucet. Getting azimuth, VTA and SRA optimized takes a ton of hands on experience and special tools. My advice is to hire a pro. That is what I do-Brian Walsh. If you buy a Rega or VPI Scout or similar, sure, that basics will do because you have a basic table. But if you are going to the lengths that you are going, don't waste that great deck and arm with a mediocre to bad set-up. 
I have used Jim Campbell. He worked on my TD124 before many years later deciding to have it worked on again, this time by Greg Metz. He is a great guy. His forte', in my humble op, is building plinths. Do you want your Garrard cleaned up the proper way? I mean really cleaned up and restored? There is Ray Clark of Classic Turntable Co. in Wakefield, Jolly UK (I bought a bunch of aftermarket parts including his power supply and have talked to him) and there is Greg Metz of STS just outside Nashville. These two will strip your Garrard 301 down to the parts, if necessary sandblast your chassis and repaint it. These two know every trick there is to restore a Garrard to like-new condition and which after-market mods are worth the money and effort. Greg is an absolute technician and stickler for precision when it comes to working with turntable mechanisms and parts. 
I don't want to take any business away from Jim Campbell, but most Garrard 301 experts will tell you that slate is not the best choice. Sure it sounds like a great idea, but that doesn't mean it is optimum. Steve Dobbins out of Boise Idaho is a noted Garrard 301 expert. He supplies a plinth known as the Dobbins Plinth. I used Russ Collinson, again in Jolly Old England, (Layers of Beauty) to build a huge custom Shindo-like plinth with Cocobolo veneer. If you go to Russ' website, you can find a video of him applying the veneer to MY plinth. Everyone who has seen it, including Brian Walsh, say they have never seen a nicer one. My point being that imho layers of proper wood are better for Garrard 301's than slate. The Garrard 301 needs to be tuned with complimentary sounding components, not deadened. 
@chakster Thank you for the high mass tonearm suggestions. I am not 100% sure if I have to go the high mass tonearm route. Most 301 users suggest high mass and low compliance carts. If they are cheap and best, then its a win win. 

This is all new to me. There are so many variables and I am trying to get as much info as possible. Thanks again.