Best Tonearm and Cartridge for 4K or under for restored Garrard 301

I am a Ex Garrard 401 Owner and at present have a
Idler Drive PTP Solid 9 as well as other TT's with a Lenco GL 75 awaiting a complete overhaul and new plinth.

Idler Drives are known for two things that will effect there Sound Quality,

 1, is in all vintage models from any Brand, and that is,  they not accurate in their speed control, to a measure that is desired in a Modern TT Design. 

2, is that the Idler Drives I have listened to can if not treated properly at the time of setting them up have 'to my ears' a overbearing Bass, that indicate 'to me' as a undesirable colouration.

The above are not criticisms, but the noticeable traits of the models I have had the opportunity to enjoy over time,  while listening to the most basic set up, through to well thought out designs for the set up.

Here are my thoughts on how a set up can be produced to clean up
what I refer to as the 'Overbearing Bass', and allow the undesirable coloration 'I perceive' is being revealed in the Bass, to be brought into a control, that delivers more to Create the Perception of a Rich, Honest, Bass Note with a very attractive Decay.    

The first control measure to be considered is the Plinth.
The Plinth will have a noticeable effect on how the energies are to be controlled and how these energies will be dissipated.

A Massey Plinth will absorb the produced energies, cleaning up the lower frequencies, but the design will keep with Noticeable Perception of what I refer to as a Overbearing Bass, and this will as a result make the Mid's and the Highs be perceived as being subdued in the overall presentation.

A Lightweight Plinth like Panzerholz, Permali, or Multiplex will or a arrangement of materials to produce a CLD Plinth Design, will be much better through the principles of the materials in use, to dissipate the produced energies.
The Bass will be perceived as having a lesser presence in these type of Plinth Designs, resulting with the perception of the Mid's and High Frequencies becoming more projected in the Soundestage.

My preferred choice of Plinth today is the Latter, as I had a 9 Stone Granite Plinth with my Garrard 401, and the PTP Solid 9 has a Lamination of Corian Material, and I know my experiences with auditioning the  Idler Drives in a Lightweight Plinth design surpasses what I have and what memories I have of the other Granite Plinth.
My Friend / New Owner of the 401, has a Lightweight Plinth in use, as the 9 Stone Plinth was just to inconvenient when other TT's owned, were sharing the same support stand.       

Another important consideration to really take the cleaning up of the Lower Frequencies to another perception of Noticeable Improvement, is the consideration of Footers for the Plinth.
I have friends who have all being investigative into the best footers and Sub Plinths to use under their Idler Drive Plinths.
I took a wild punt on 'Solid Tech Feet of Silence' and got very noticeable and impressive results.
These were taken out to others systems and were exchanged for the designs used by the systems owners, the response the 'Feet of Silence'
has been extremely impressive, all the owners who have experienced them in use, have either bought a similar type of device at a more affordable cost, and one produced a Sub Plinth using multiple elastics on the same design principle, and this has remained in place, over a the previous Sub Plinth and Footer set up, that was about £200  in cost.

When this level of control is in place, then a further attenuation can be worked with, using Platter Mats and Spindle Weights/Clamps.
I am getting very good results from a Tenuto Mat and a AT638 weight.
Be careful with this though, trialling of Mat Material in a set up is quite important to create a personal sound, I have had the Tenuto removed from another system, it made the High Frequencies too much for the system owner on their belt drive TT. 

Now the  road leads to Speed Controllers.
Do not under estimate the importance of one of these devices being put to service with a Vintage Idler Drive System.
I mention it last, as it could be confused as cure all, if it is used from the off set, the good impression it will make will leave the impression, enough has been done to upgrade.
If brought to the set up as a last addition,
if all the work done prior to the addition, has been perceived at each stage as having a noticeable improvement,
then the addition of a speed controller can leave a stratospheric impression for the better on the works done prior to it being put to use.

My Speed Controller is out on loan, to a individual who has spent much time on the above modifications, and he absolutely places his 
'acquired free Lenco GL75'with about £100 spent on Mod's,
over his expensive Linn and Thorens TT's. 

Sien 'SPH' offers bearings for various Idler Drives.
I suggest that you can read up on these affordable bearings,
learning of his earliest to his most recent reviews on Lenco Heaven.

My Friend that owns my 401, has been instrumental in offering design information to Sien, for the Latest Composite/Two Part Platter Spindle Design.
My Friend has chosen Ebony as the material that the Platter connect to when seated on the Platter Spindle for his Stacked Platter GL75.
He has been trailing this New Bearing against his original bearing with secondary extensions to create a stacked platter, and is reporting back that the Bass is much more controlled, and the Mid's and Highs are very impressive.
He is claiming the perceived improvement  is mostly attributed to do with the non metal to metal contact between the Spindle and Platter,
I have no data of any type to support these descriptions.

My Suggestion is, if you are going to produce your own Plinth, or have a Plinth Produced for you, choose a Plinth Design that will allow for you 
to go for the Longest Bearing that can be offered for the 301, as the Geometry of the Long Bearing will be the best design.
If you are to use a Sien Bearing, use the Composite Spindle,
and if you can experiment try a few different Platter / Spindle Interface Materials. 

As for Tonearm and Cartridge, well the options list is near on endless.

My personal choice today, for a Idler Drive is a Ortofon MC, as these are a little lean in the Bass, and compliment very nicely with a Noticeable Prominent Bass on a Idler Drive.
My Tonearm of the Past was a SME IV, but this is now replaced with a custom modified Audio Technica AT-1010, referred to as a PMAT-1010,
the PMAT-1010 was my most favourite find in many years.
Two individuals have bought into it since auditioning mine, and there is a growing number of converts throughout Britain and Europe. 

I know that the thoughts on how to get the best from any TT Set Up are varying, and that some of my information on offer that is produced from experiences and sharing in the experiences of others, might not be agreeable to some.
I hope you get something usable from the direction contained in the above.     
        

@kanchi647 Congrats on the PRW arm. An interesting choice. The 103r version has purer and lighter wire. It's a no- brainer. You might also look at the Zu version.

@pindac thanks for sharing the info. I will keep this in mind as I am doing more tweaking in the future 

@noromance I went with PRW bcos I got it at a good price and works with all carts and has VTA, Azimuth on fly and many say it is as good as Reed arm 
I would like to know, why are you calling it an interesting choice 
I am also buying Sien’s tonearm. It looks awesome. I will have two tonearms mounted. Sien also suggested AT95E cart with custom aluminum body and shibata stylus, which I will mount on Sien’s arm. Need a cart for the woodie. 

@pindac;
A very heavy platter, like my solid brass platter from SMD will eliminate virtually all of the bass emphasis but sacrifice a good bit of the propulsive quality that many of us love about our idlers. With my current cartridge, a VdH Colibri Crimson, I like the trade-off but I am sure as hell not getting rid of my OEM platter. My current 301 set-up renders tons of detail and clarity at the expense of tone and midrange warmth. As I said above, no one turntable-despite what one noted analog expert would have us believe-provides everything. The same holds true for every individual component known to mankind, every phone cartridge, every system, and every room. 

Can you pls elaborate on the One continuous wire from cartridge clip to RCAs..  I use RCA cable from back of the TT to PPA990.

Yeah that's what you want to avoid, the interconnect between the table and the phono stage. What you want is an arm with integral RCA. In other words the cable and RCA is hard wired into the arm. One continuous wire. 

This is because the signal coming off the cartridge is the weakest faintest most delicate in all of audio. The next stage in the process, the phono stage amplifies this weak signal by the most amplification in all of audio. The last thing you want to do in a situation like this is subject that signal to a whole bunch of unnecessary connections. Every one of which is prone to micro-arcing and all the many other imperfections inherent in every connection.

As far as setup goes, do it yourself. Its not nearly as hard as its made out to be. Its not nearly as expensive. You can download and print alignment grids right off the web, and then with a $20 Shure stylus force gauge and some tweezers you are set. 

The reason this is all you need is because all the fancy jigs and meters and whatnot, all they really ever do is get you close. Once you get close all the fine tuning is done by ear. When you are tweaking VTF .05g by ear and the cartridge spec is a range twenty times as big you begin to understand why it just doesn't matter what gauge you use. When you are tweaking VTA by equally tiny amounts and doing it all by ear you begin to understand what a waste an expensive protractor is. And when you do all this stuff and see and hear and it all sinks in then you actually know what's going on and realize that right there was worth ten times the effort- and you will not hesitate to do it again, and again, and it only gets easier and easier. So just do it.