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Best type of Sub to consider?

I'm not looking for a brand or model recommendation at this time, but rather the best type of sub to fit my room and system. If you access my System pics, you will see that I have open corners behind my speakers and that my Horning speakers are rear ported. This has caused some energy loss, especially in the bass when compared to my previous setup in my other home.

I am a newbie to subs and see different design types that fire up, down, up and down, and forward. There may be other variations. So, does any of this matter when applying the best design type to a room, my room? My knee-jerk reaction is to go with forward firing in my situation, but that's complete speculation on my part, so why I'm asking.
Kenny
kennythekey
ajant
72 posts
 
 

Eric,

 Would there be any advantage to daisy chaining a pair of sealed Rythmik F12 subs with a pair of the dual 12 Rythmik OB subs?

 However, my room is only 14 ft x 19 and a 7.5' ceiling.


This sub is made specifically for music reproduction, being optimized for sound QUALITY, gladly sacrificing maximum sound quantity to get it. The output of a pair of the OB/Dipole subs is about equal to a single sealed Rythmik. Are you willing to give up 3dB in output to obtain the OB/Dipole sound quality? I was.

 


bdp24's avatar
bdp24
9,737 posts
 

ajant---Yes! And that is a very good idea, one which Danny Richie himself has done when showing at RMAF (where the OB/Dipole Sub was voted "Best Bass At The Show" multiple years in the recent past), using the OB’s in the front of the room and F12G’s in the rear. The Rythmik plate amp is available in an XLR version (actually two different XLR models---the XLR2 and XLR3), so you can run a long inter-connect from your pre (or the OB sub’s plate amp) to the F12’s at the back of the room.

The XLR2 allows multiple subs to be connected in "Master/Slave" fashion, but that is recommended only with identical subs, not OB’s with sealed subs. That is because the Master/Slave connection disables some of the Slave’s controls, the Master used to set the operating parameters for both it and the Slave sub. But two subs can be connected without the Master/Slave relationship, the input signal reaching the first sub’s amp merely passed along to a second sub---handy if one’s pre-amp lacks enough outputs for two pair of subs. My pre has both RCA and XLR outputs, two L/R pairs of each, so I can feed OB’s and sealed subs separately.

chlv0ter's avatar
chlv0ter
31 posts
 
I run 2 - 12" sealed REL Subs in my room and you can't tell they're there.  They're both behind main speakers facing opposite one another aiming at side walls of my room.  

I read Jim Smiths book, Get Better Sound and got him to help me set them up or I wouldn't have gotten it right I'm sure...
tablejockey
3,871 posts
 
I'm a little late to the discussion here.

kennythe key- your system is stunning to look at. Undoubtably sounds good too.

I think I may have commented  in another thread about your Mac 71 in the beautiful maple case. I've yet to replace  the flaking, tired looking case  for mine.

My 2 REL B3's keep my room pressurized without drawing attention to themselves. My setup has subs behind, equidistant to floorstanders in relation to the listening position.


kennythekey OP
593 posts
 
tablejockey,

Thank you for your kind words. After eight years, I'm finally replacing my line stage, so the last piece of the main gear. Tweaking after that.

Yes, I remember that McIntosh discussion. The place where I got my Birdseye Maple MR71 cabinet was from here: http://mcintoshcabinets.com/

If that's where your subs make your system sound the best then that's where they belong. I added subs without wanting them, but needing them. It all worked out for the better.
Kenny
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