Can anyone help me biasing a Jadis Defy 7?

Well... I spoke with Brooks Berdan and he shed a whole new light on the particular Defy. It has the s/n 213 and it turns out that Jadis built all defy-7 amps from something like s/n 200 to s/n 399 a little bit different.
On these amps, you do not bias by measuring voltage between chassis and fuse. You measure across a greenish brown 1.5 ohm resister that sits under the power tubes.
You have to aim for 33 mv.
You also have to swap tubes around to try to get the best match while biasing. I am glad to have read the previous posts and hear that the lengthy biasing procedure will be worth the effort.
Thanks folks.

Mattzack2-
If you bought matched tubes as I suggested, you should be able to keep them together and avoid a lot of the hassle in Schipo's post. The pot sets the bias voltage, and if the tubes are closely matched the voltage readings should be nearly equal. Ultimately they should be close to achieve maximum power, but will work if it isn't. What you are doing is measuring the idle current flowing through a resistor via the voltage drop across that resistor.

It will be worth the effort, that midrange is fabulous.

Did own the Mk4 and to be sure I never attempted any such adjustments. And yes, I did buy mine from Brooks and brought it in for service.--The best service and waaaay; the price. A hard combo to beat in this day of "stone handed" over charging repair guys. It was this amp's lack of user biasing that sent me to the CJ 8's.
Side note;ain't this a great site where such information is shared? U-bet.

here's another thread on the topic

http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr.pl?aamps&1206759992&openflup&6&4#6

A word about safety, beyond what was said in the article Schipo quoted. And this is particularly applicable if you are using an uninsulated metallic screwdriver to adjust the bias pots.

There is an old adage that when working under the chassis of powered up tube equipment you should have one hand tied behind your back. Obviously you don't literally have to do that, but the point is that if the hand you are doing the work with, or a conductive object that it is holding, were to inadvertently come in contact with high voltage you MUST not simultaneously have your other hand, or any other part of your body, in contact with the chassis, or with any other circuit point or conductive surface.

The reason, of course, being that if one hand is in contact with high voltage, and the other hand is in contact with ground or some significantly different voltage, there would be a large flow of current directly through your body.

Best regards,
-- Al