Choosing new drivers/crossover in a speaker build


This may not be the place for this thread, but I will take a chance. I am building a new set of speakers. Usually, I go with a full range driver and cabinet to match. This time around, I actually was paid in a pair of Scan Speak 8" drivers for my cabinet work. They cost $450 ea. or about that. I put them in a back loaded horn cabinet and couldn't be more impressed so far. Of course, these drivers are designed to work in multiway speaker design, and so I will be doing my best to find a good tweeter and crossover. I did see at Madisound, a 2 way crossover for about $600/pr. and so that likely will be the way I go for the crossover, or possibly build my own. Now, the usual tweeter used with this driver is also a Scan Speak, with a beryllium cone. At about $500 ea. I can't cut it. I will continue a search for a tweeter that can be crossed over at about 2khz.  

 Any ideas/experience with this?

128x1284krowme

I have a pair of those drivers, which were some of the lowest distortion ones available, but recently have been eclipsed by the newer Purifi units.
Still they are a super woofer.

A waveguide tweeter and with or without a MR (2 way or 3 way) they should be PDG.

I see it - but dimensions and where the woofer and the tweeter would go is uncertain. https://www.decware.com/newsite/DNA2.html

 

I think that the Hypex (maybe FA223 or FA123) is a something like 250W+250W+100W for the tweeter. And probably could be the easiest to do the bandpass XO. They also have 2 in 1 amps.

I might even take a crack at it as have most of what I need and other than the sheets of wood, I only need to figure out the diffraction and how to shape the cabinet not have it resonate. I have a pair of FA502s, and some 10” Earthquake SLAPS PRs that I could use.

I think I need to find a circle jig for the router.

 

whether those 3 in 1 amps with the DSP are sonically inferior to a passive XO and a larger is a question… But at the least the speaker cable questions go away.

DIYaudio.com is the best place to aask these kinds of questions.

 

I am a big fan of Scanspeak, but you are 100% going to be better off with a 3-way design here.  It also sounds like you are brand new to crossover design. That's it's own learning curve.  I suggest DIYaudio, but also maybe consider an active crossover with cheap amps to get started.  Lots less math that way.

holmz,

 You can see my build of the DNA2 on my systems page. There would be room for a tweeter at the top, above the woofer.

Jasper makes my favorite circle jig for routers.

 

erik_squires,

  Yah, that makes sense. I will continue with questions at that site.

 

  Much appreciated for the information. This will all have a great outcome.

As an ending statement, I would like to thank those who helped with this question. I remain fascinated by what I found at DIY Audio. Sometimes site will just supply an overwhelming amount of info, but that was not the case here! There is a very well written thread on the subject, hence my amazement, and not so much confusion. This will make my attempts completely more fun than frustrating.

 

     The End (remember when movies had to tell us when it was over?)

I just built a 12db active crossover and linear power supply from Elliott Sound Products.  I must admit that it made quite a difference.  I am using it to split the lows to the subwoofers/highs to the speakers.  I wasn't sure if I would like it, but my wife and I both agree it sounds significantly better.