Larry, I agree with you about the 5362. I bought a bunch of Hubbell and Pass&Seymour chocolate and vanilla ones if anybody wants any cheap. The Hubbell may be slightly sturdier than the P&S, or the Hubbell/Bryant, but ALL Hubbells and P&S's have great clamping strength, which is a big part of their performance........ The improvements in lowered noisefloor and more open top octave from using a shield-drained and all-Teflon dielectric line (like the 83803 (12AWG) and 83806 (9AWG) are usually quite noticeable...just like in a PC similarly manufactured. But there are SO many variables in systems, ambient noise, tweeter and hearing rolls, etc......... I'm still a dis-believer re cryogenic treatment of conductive materials. My belief is that the cryogenic process may SLIGHTLY affect the stabilization of the DIELECTRICS involved, hastening burn-in. But there are better ways to accomplish this for some dielectrics that can withstand ceratin other processes that are easier to perform.....Re circuit breakers I'd suggest that "exercising" them a few times with contact cleaner is more important than cryo. JMO. Cheers.
Circuit breakers and dirty power
I was wondering if there is a recommended circuit breaker to use. I look at all of the time and money being spent trying to get the best receptical and power cords assemled, but why use a $5.00 home depot circuit breaker. I can hear my water heater timer through my speakers(*&%^$). Now I am trying to come up with a way to eliminate this without spending $1000.00 on a power supply system. I will run a dedicated line and I have 4 Hubble hospital grade outlets I am going to use. But won't I still have the same problem? How can I get clean power without spending a fortune?
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- 5 posts total
- 5 posts total