Cleaning a old tonearm

Dougdeacon: I recommend using the WD-40 only after the use of lighter fluid, as it is a great degrease and cleaner.My only concern is after cleaning the tonearm you could strip it of it's natural oil's. And in the near future start to pit and show some sign's of rust.I would wipe most of the WD-40 off and only leave a very light coat. But the pledge sounds great
since it is a multi purpose cleaner and that should do the trick.

Schipo, just what are these "natural oils" on tonearm parts? A possible lubrication on pivot points I can understand but I am not aware of any natural oil occurring on metal parts themselves.

For anyone concerned with providing a "protective" coating, I would suggest a dedicated automotive or metal polish or wax. Any liquid that does not evaporate away completely, like WD-40, will leave a residue that may attract dust and dirt.

Thank all of you for your help. I used q-tips diped in carb and choke cleaner made by thr Gumout corp. Also I found that pipe cleaners worked very good in tight areas. Looks like brand new almost. Bearings feel smooth with no play. Again thank you all. The other film on it besides the dust I think was nicotine as the guy I got it from is a heavy smoker. It came right off too.

Pryso:are you saying that after cleaning a metal tonearm using an astringent that it might not cause pitting or even "possible show signs of rust? Any lubricant no matter the viscocity will attract dust.

The tone arms I am familiar with are painted, anodized, chrome, or stainless, or some combination of these finishes. I have seen older arms with some form of crud or tarnish but I have never seen one with possible signs of rust. Perhaps I just don't get around enough.

To me, lubricants are for protection of bearing surfaces. For the application of protecting tonearm finishes, other solutions will serve better. YMMV.