Converting LP to digital. Advice please...


I am looking to archive some vinyl onto a hard drive that I can then transfer to CD. I would like to take it from line level output to a A/D convertor then store it on a computer hard drive. Then have a program that will allow me to take each LP side and dive the songs into individual tracks. Suggestions on a/d conversion and software would be appreicated greatly
128x128theo
lewm - Removing clicks and pops indeed changes the data. But, I would argue, the clicks and pops have already done that. Getting the signal back to as close to the original as possible has to be better than leaving the click or pop in. All you have to do is look at the waveform to see the distortion that the pop or click creates. If you only have a few pops or clicks you can just go to those specific spots in the file and do the correction on that specific spot. You do not have to process the whole track. Vinyl Studio, for example, lets you fix just a specific area.  The program will fix the selected section or you can do it yourself manually, while looking at the waveform. You can listen to that section with and without the fix. Give it a try.  Attempting to fix a badly damaged section, especially when the flaw lies along the track rather than across it, can do more damage than good. But I find that removal of a typical short pop or click always sounds better than leaving the defect in.
Lewm you've suggested that the sugar cube is interposed between the cartridge and phono stage but that's not how I read it. They've left cartridge optimisation and equalisation to the phono stage and are expecting to either receive a line level signal from it or from the tape monitor output from the preamp. This means minimal  interference with the signal path.

As Lewm mentioned, I’m using a Tascam DA-3000 to record vinyl to DSD128. Performance of the stock unit is fine, and improves significantly after replacing bipolar regulators in the power supply with Belleson SPZ parts. Footers and power cords also make a difference. Get all that tweaking done at an early stage so you’re not tempted to re-record later on... Life is too short.

The process not only produces excellent recordings, it has pushed me to discipline tonearm set-up and record cleaning. Combining Tergi-Kleen on a VPI 16.5 with an Elmasonic ultrasonic machine cleans most records to the point that I don’t think about de-clicking software and the possibility of attendant degradation. I heard the Sugarcube at a show. Unfortunately the system used for the demo was too modest for conclusions.

Since the process is performed in real time, this provides opportunity while listening to gather metadata from the web for the file folder and to append a short PDF that includes recording details such as tonearm and cartridge used and gain/attenuation settings on the Tascam.

After using Tascam’s free software to divide the recording into tracks and wirelessly uploading the folder from PC to NAS, the Roon core recognizes most of it and will discover metadata similar to entering a ripped CD.

Once routinized, the process of recording and storage adds about 50% to the time that it takes to listen to a record. You need about 3GB per LP to make a DSD128 recording. It is good enough that I have no further interest in purchasing hi-res downloads that duplicate my record collection.

The routine can be numbing but becomes part of the fun and tends to keeps one centered on music rather than system-building. This can be a good thing.

There has been discussion about the fact that declicking a digitized file can damage the underlying music and therefore some people decide to not try to declick their files. Personally, I think the data is already damaged by the click and trying to fix it is worthwhile. For me, removing the click is almost always less noticeable than the click and usually I cannot hear any flaw in the correction.

With a tool like Vinyl Studio you can have it automatically declick (or de-hiss) an entire file or just a section of the file. That is, you can locate a click you want to fix and just fix that small portion of the file, leaving the rest untouched. You can also do the declick fix manually by moving the boundaries of the fix and watching the waveform change. You can also listen to the section with and without the fix.

When you look at a click in a waveform the distortion is very noticeable and you can look at the fix and decide for yourself if you think it has damaged the music. This linked file is an example of a classic click - about .004 seconds in length. In the view, the green line is the music waveform and the black line in the click. Within the green box you can see the click and the fix. You, of course have no idea what the original waveform was, but it is pretty clear that the fix is more natural that the click. In this case both channels were declicked. The left channel (top) had more damage than the right channel and fixes are applied separately.

Take a look at the image. I think you will see that the declick reproduces the surrounding waveform pretty well and when listening to the fix you cannot hear any distortion.

If you like your clicks for nostalgia purposes leave them in. But I must say listening to my digitized vinyl with almost all the pops and clicks removed and with hiss removed really does make them sound very good. Once again, you can de-hiss the whole track or just a portion. On quiet passages de-hissing really can make a difference.

https://photos.google.com/album/AF1QipP7GQZpf9MyjE92rosOG1WmK8kU7dBZ2leyYkQA/photo/AF1QipPEe3AU79FBDTemD7eOlcJe-vLiNcd6CCke8p9Z

Here is the waveform of a very damaged track. You can see the regular scratches in black. Even this cleaned up well, with only a very few glitches noticeable in the final version.If you count the main clicks you will find about 33 per minute.

https://photos.google.com/album/AF1QipP7GQZpf9MyjE92rosOG1WmK8kU7dBZ2leyYkQA/photo/AF1QipN3bOPPIPZhrPb3jTJ8trJ0IKxxzDrAQZQGdDJ4