jea48, my apologies, I left out one important detail. The heat cabling came in pre-configured lengths from the manufacturer, with factory terminations. The heat zone in question was the maximum length offered. The electricians knew their job, but in this case merely read the literature and provided the specified cable in the thermostat box. You can probably guess what the solution was.
Dedicated circuits
I just completed installing 2 dedicated circuits. After reading several threads here, I went with 30 amp breakers with 10 AWG wire with high end receptacles. One circuit for the amp and the other for everything else. I’m blown away by the difference. Tighter bass, not as bright, better imaging and soundstage. Should have done this long ago.
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@mesch and @everyone else who took the time to clarify this concept for me--thank you. I may be a little bit dyslectic when it comes to this stuff--the way I was seeing it was that with a 20A outlet & 12-2 connecting it to the box, I had a 20A circuit protected by a 15A breaker. When actually I had the opposite. But now I understand the error in my thinking & I am rectifying it. I do not want a catastrophic event--period; but if one occurs, I do not want my insurance company finding a way not to pay me. Anyway, I would have already put those 20A breakers in, but since this is the dedicated circuit thread, something else had been gnawing at me. My circuit needed to move to another room a few years ago, so what I did was put a work-box in my attic for a junction from which I could drop the lines down into my new location. I went to Lowes to load up on the stuff I would need, and the electrician guy who was there sold me on these (for lack of knowing what they are really called I will call them) "stab connectors" instead of wire nuts. (one stab for black from box/one stab for black to new location/one stab for black going to original location X white & copper X three circuits . . . I never really liked the way I felt about the way they grabbed on to the stripped leads from the Romex, and a while back ago I wound up putting wire nuts on all the grounds because I lost a ground on one circuit (must not have been a patent stab) and after I read a reply on this thread about circuits made up of "back stabbed outlets," I decided to get up in the attic today and pig tail and wire nut ALL the splices on ALL three of the circuits. Which is not as much fun as it sounds like, because I had to reroute some of the Romex as I had it stapled down after I finished it the last time, and I needed more Romex in order to work with it inside the work-box. So that’s what I have been doing today & will finish up tomorrow. So going back to a few years ago, when I was buying stuff at Lowes, the electrician guy who was assisting me asked me to describe the Romex I had used, & when I did, he told me it was only rated for 15A. Since I only do this when I need to, and since I originally did it 25 years ago, I thought it would have been strange that everyone who told me what I needed to do and the electrician who actually hooked my Romex runs up to the upgraded box I bought, would have told me to buy 15A Romex and then hooked it up to the 20A breakers I had for those 3 circuits, but I am not rocket scientist or brain surgeon so I decided to put 15A breakers in for those 3 circuits. As I was working on my new lines, I did note that my existing Romex was clearly marked "12-2 with ground" and I did later show a piece to an electrician who assured me that it was good for 20A. But, a 15A CB just seemed like an error on the side of safety for all the misguided reasons that I was asking about in my last half dozen posts or so to this thread, so I never asked anybody, until now, about the legitimacy or wisdom of that. However, I am glad I did. Sorry for writing War And Peace.
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Lots of good information on this thread. Regarding breakers, magnetic type are preferred over thermal as thermal act as a resister, working against dynamic flow. Audience, makes some dedicated in-wall AC power wire as well as duplex outlets under the Hidden Treasure line. I am affiliated with the company. |
@Audiencllc where to buy magnetic breakers - Lowe’s or Home Depot? This thread is has a few people that know a thing or two about power demands. Getting ready to swap in a Sunfire True Sub Signature to handle LFE duty and the CC’s heavy lifting. Would appreciate counsel to power this Carver-designed beast! It seems it minimum, it may need sole use of one of the existing 20As. I reading somewhere it can pull 27 amperes? Someone in an earlier reply has one these.
Thanks. Tony |
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