Dedicated Vinyl system next upgrade?

Hi. I love my system. I really do. I love vinyl and listen to vinyl nearly exclusively via “appointment listening”. I do Sometimes stream and listen while I walk or while working but I love just sitting and listening to my stereo. I believe I’ve arrived regarding finally achieving a great set up and have experienced that vinyl “magic” that audiophiles obsess over. I understand that limitations exist and a great stereo will reveal the quality of a recording - good or bad. The law a diminishing returns regarding  upgrading is something I’m mindful of. I don’t have endless funds to spend on upgrades. My question is - what should I consider upgrading next? Should I ditch the integrated amp considering I’m using an external phono stage? Or should I go with a better integrated amp? Or should I look at a better cartridge? Do I upgrade my turntable or just the tonearm? Do I upgrade the power cable on my amp? 
Here’s what I’m currently working with - and thanks for your thoughts/suggestions! 

Clear Audio Concept Turntable
W/ Hana SL cartridge 

Herron Audio VTPH-2a Phono Stage

Rogue Audio Cronus Magnum II integrated power amplifier 

Kimber Kable speaker wire and interconnects (I forget which model - an entry lever set - nothing crazy) 

Bowers and Wilkins 805 D3 stand mount loud speakers

Set of two stereo REL S/510 subs

I guess I am on optimize's side in this with a few caveats. Room control will correct frequency and time issues better than any other method by a long shot. But, it will not change the way a room sounds. It is not eliminating reflections or preventing echo. It's time correction is purely between drivers and subs. If you have a reasonable room and sub woofers set up correctly room control is all you need. Unfortunately, this is usually not the case. In the bass if the nodes in the room vary widely the power required to correct them will clip amps and bottom out woofers. With two subs if you put them right up against the wall or in corners symmetrically placed around the satellites you can minimize this. With one sub you can forget it. 
Most people do not understand that room control is done at very high resolution with high bit density. In my unit it is 48/192. Resolution this high is invisible, vinyl sounds just as vinyl always sounds except better.
I am working on pictures of my system including shots of the computer screen with measurements and corrections for the virtual systems page. I am having a hard time capturing the screen without haze so, if anyone more skilled in photography has any ideas they would be greatly appreciated.

Paul, if you go for a new tonearm I might suggest in order of expense the Origin Live Zephyr, Kuzma's 4 point 9 and finally Schroder's CB. Before you buy any tonearm please check the spindle to pivot distance and make sure the pivot will land squarely on your tonearm board which is not very large. Again, in terms of bang for the buck just changing the cartridge to one that is more compliant than the Hana will make the largest improvement in sound quality and eliminate some of your woofer pumping. I always assume people are using a full 2 way crossover for the subs. If not, getting a proper 2 way crossover will stop woofer pumping dead and drop distortion in your satellites by an order of magnitude. It will also allow you to raise the crossover point and make seamless integration easier. 

Back to room control, if you think the frequency response of your system is reasonably flat you are sorely mistaken. Unless you have room control This is a generalization I am more than happy to stick to. If you get a calibrated mic and impulse testing program, ,you will see aberrations over +- 10 dB. Your fequency response curve will look like the rocky mountains. I have ESLs and I will show you all their response curve once I get the photography down.  
Regarding tonearm.
If/when try to get one there you can get added functionality. Otherwise you get just the same and probably only little better in some regards.

One added functionality that will generate better sound quality is if you can get one with the ability to adjust the VTA (SRA) on the fly  during playback. Yes we can always do it manually back and forth with a less of a success. So do a tone arm swap that counts.

Another alternate is to get a tone arm that you could in the future could add maybe a "Easy VTA" to it at a later time.

 Anyway good luck with your upgrades. :)
Compare the sound of your system to head phones. Good headphones are pretty flat. Except for the presentation your system should have the same tonal balance as the headphones. I think (not sure) that this may be the reason many love their headphones. They sound more right than their systems even though the band is in the middle of their head. I suppose then the mark of a good system is that it sounds like the headphones except the band is in front of you where it belongs.
If you are in the mood for an experiment, then try to replace your Clearaudio TT with a vintage direct drive like Kenwood KD990 (or similar) or Technics SP 10 or 12 with a tonearm that matches the wonderful Hana SL. 
optimize, the vast majority of us set the SRA to the requisite 92 degrees and forget about it. Many of the very best tonearms do not have adjustable VTA on the fly and IMHO are better for it. Why do I want to spend money on something I would never use. The only arms I would make an exception for, because they are so good are the 4 points and the Triplanar. My personal favorites do not have it. Regardless of the arm I buy I'm going to get out my trust USB microscope, special protractor and set the SRA to exactly 92 degrees. If the groove is off 30 minutes one way or the other it is not going to matter.