I suggested the H190, not the H120 cause ur gonna need the power. Which one did you get?
Emphasis on stereo but need a complete solution.
So I started trying to fix my stereo output from apple music and have ended up realizing I need to replace the middle of my system. I only have two real sources of audio video, Firestick and a streaming music service.
For tv/movies, I don’t care all that much. Mostly watch baseball, nice if movie sound is decent. Only source is Firestick 4K
For stereo, I do care. I want the Totems driven as well as possible. Source Tidal, Qubuz, Apple???
I have a 30 year old NAD 2 channel 2100 amp- I could use for the Totems but willing to replace.
Also have Yamaha – RX-V375 Receiver which I could use for the surrounds. I don't want it in the signal path to the mains (Totems)
So I care most about the DAC, Preamp, and 2 of the 5.1 channels of the amp(s)
Would rather have the amp(s) separate from the digital stuff.
I used to know audio but stopped paying much attention years ago and somewhat confused by the digital side. I am a programmer but just don’t keep up with audio formats much.
Cost is definitely a factor. Used stuff is ok with me and usually more cost effective. Would like to stay under 3k-ish.
I think I’m breaking the problem down correctly but chime in if not. Mainly just want to figure out how to break out the components.
What do I put in the middle where it says ***(What goes here???
Existing system:
Video source:FireStick 4k ->
TV: 4K HDMI Input -> Sony 85" Class X90CL Series 4K -> 4k HDMI output ->
***(What goes here??? Decode HDMI, Streams Tidal, preamp, amp) ->
Mains: Totem Winds for left/ right mains - 80-250 watt, 4 ohms, 87 dB sensitivity, 24-21 khz +-3db
Surrounds: Energy center, rears -No specs, decent, not very important to me
Active Sub (maybe removed if the Winds can handle the lows for movies, don’t need sub for music)
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- 23 posts total
@moverton99 , the one higher up from the RX-A2A....i.e., the RX-A4A is what you may need with preouts for all channels. It is on accessories4less for $799, full price is usually around 1400.
Fidelity levels will improve depending on how hifi of a power amplifier you will connect to those preouts, especially the front stage (front left, center, front right). Here’s a decent power amp candidate with 120 W/channel class AB, all channels driven, which should make your speakers behave...
Other things you could consider doing for your Yamaha receiver/processor... - Read the manual cover to cover - Turn off bluetooth and wifi. Don’t bother with the antenna. - Hardwire/Connect with a ethernet cable, use a IFI ethernet filter before plugging in the ethernet cable. - Use a Audioquest power conditioner such as the Audioquest Powerquest 505 or 707. Plug your processor, amp, router, etc into it on designated outlets. - If you are a cable believer, use Audioquest power cables, speaker cables and ethernet cables (even the fairly affordable base models should be fine).
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@soix I did mess up it and bought the 120, they had both open box and somehow swapped without noticing. I just changed it with the vendor to the 190. Another 700$ but still good deal. Thanks for the heads up. Good catch. |
@deep_333 I don't need more than what the A2A can provide for the center and surrounds. They are relatively tiny and I don't have any plans on something larger there. I'm only moving the front left/right to the Hagel. |
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