To All:
The information that Alex revealed about the master clock is exactly the type of information audiophiles need to know and more importantly understand. We (as audiophiles) don't stand a chance against these marketing behemoth's as they are pro's at disimenating technical information that at first glance look seems extremely impressive but later we find has very little impact on the actual performance.
We've seen this stuff over the years. I remember in the 70's when THD (Total Harmonic Distortion) was the big buzzword and everyone obsessed over what the percentage was for their unit. Then power delivery (# of watts per channel for amplifiers) was big with many people believing more Watts meant more power. We later came to find out the amperage (current)is more important than Watts. Also, mfg's can play game with wattage ratings similar to those played with THD.
Then when Sony (and now Esoteric) came out with these massive, over built transports (Sony's SCD-1 and now Esoteric's X01/UX1) we all get giddy and happy again because they'd like us to believe that their transport's are unique and sets a new level of performance that other companies can't reach.
Now power conditioners are the big thing and everybody wants a Richard Grey, PS Audio, etc.
Guys, its time to wake up, sift through the marketing bs and become a better, more informed audiophile who really knows his stuff. In my quest to find Digital Audio Nirvana I have also found it necessary to learn the electronics/technical side so I can determine what's really important. I've been reading books and talking to audio engineers who know the "real deal". Let me share my findings with you:
We found out years ago that THD is easy to manipulate through the use of negative loop feedback. Normally THD figures are given at a fixed frequency (say 2K as an example). By applying negative feedback at a fixed frequency you can lower the output impedance, raise the frquency response and at the same time lower the THD.
However, in real "life" we don't listen to music at fixed frequencies. The frequency range is quite variable. That's why Intermodulation Harmonic Distortion is much more important figure to know. Unfortunately, there is no real reliable way to measure that. So my point is THD is not a reliable figure to meausre performance.
The quality of the internal clock on a cd player is extremely important. The clock synchronizes the timing between the DAC and the transport. The more accurate the clock the more accurately the laser pick-up can read the disc at the required 44.1K frequency and the more accurately the DAC can interpet the digital information (1's and 0's)and complete the digital to analog conversion.
Although the mechanical coupling and physical build quality of the transport is important (hence the fame of TEAC's VRDS), the accuracy of the clock and the way in which it sychronizes the DAC and laser pick up is more MUCH MORE IMPORTANT. That has a direct effect on "timing jitter" in terms of delay in reading information. Though these delays are measured in pico seconds they do have a cumulative effect on the flow and musicality of the information you hear.
Power supplies are also extremely important. Mfg's love to throw around the term "we use a torroidal transformer" in our units. What's really important in a power supply is whether its a "switch mode" or "true linear power supply". A linear power supply is much more desirious and will improve the performance of the unit immensely. It also has the ability to provide "reserve power" when your system or the music demands it better than switch mode power supplies. Finally, switch modes power supplies are much noisier than linear power supplies.
Furthermore, its even better to have a power supply that's not only linear but also fully balanced. A fully balanced power supply will truncate (knock off) the asymetric part of the sine wave that produces noise from the power line. In truth, if you have high quality components (amps, cdp, pre-amps) that are fully balanced and utlize the better power supplies and transformers YOU DO NOT NEED external power conditioners. You do need surge protection. And better outlets (PS Audio/Hubbell) are helpful.
This whole industry of power conditioners came about because many mfg's (in an effort to save money and increase their profits) stop using high quality power supplies and transformers..especially on their lower end units. They've all sold us on the idea that the electricy coming off of your neighborhood transformer is dirty and noisy and can hurt the performance of your system. That is true...but the beauty of fully balanced power supplies with high quality transformers is they internally clean up the AC BEFORE it hits the internal circuitry of your unit and has a chance to degrade the audio performance. Keep in mind I'm strictly talking audio here. I don't know enough about the video side.
The point I'm trying to make here is don't ever take to much stock in the technical merits the mfg's advertise to you upfront. Worry more about what they're NOT TELLING YOU. Take time to learn about the components and parts in a cdp that are truly crucial and important and why. Guys like Alex and some of these other modders..they do know.
The sad truth is some of these higher quality parts are not even that expensive. Alex can buy a really high quality dac for $15. Or a high quality clock for $30. Which makes it even more disgusting and unacceptable as to how these mfg's can charge $3,000-$15,000 for a cdp and still not include the very highest quality parts available in the market. These modders can give you better units at much lower prices.
I'm not saying don't buy from a mfg. I still like many of the products on the market. What I am saying is do your research and find out what you're "really getting" in terms of quality of the components that really matter. The better companies will answer your questions and tell you the quality of parts used. If they can't tell you maybe you should have a modder check it within the return time frame to make sure its a quality piece. But whatever unit I by to replace my DV 50 you can be sure I'm going to be well informed in regards to exactly what did I buy. I'm tired of this "audio carousel". I want value and quality, value and quality, value and quality". It's not about how much money you spend...its about how smart you are in spending it!
The information that Alex revealed about the master clock is exactly the type of information audiophiles need to know and more importantly understand. We (as audiophiles) don't stand a chance against these marketing behemoth's as they are pro's at disimenating technical information that at first glance look seems extremely impressive but later we find has very little impact on the actual performance.
We've seen this stuff over the years. I remember in the 70's when THD (Total Harmonic Distortion) was the big buzzword and everyone obsessed over what the percentage was for their unit. Then power delivery (# of watts per channel for amplifiers) was big with many people believing more Watts meant more power. We later came to find out the amperage (current)is more important than Watts. Also, mfg's can play game with wattage ratings similar to those played with THD.
Then when Sony (and now Esoteric) came out with these massive, over built transports (Sony's SCD-1 and now Esoteric's X01/UX1) we all get giddy and happy again because they'd like us to believe that their transport's are unique and sets a new level of performance that other companies can't reach.
Now power conditioners are the big thing and everybody wants a Richard Grey, PS Audio, etc.
Guys, its time to wake up, sift through the marketing bs and become a better, more informed audiophile who really knows his stuff. In my quest to find Digital Audio Nirvana I have also found it necessary to learn the electronics/technical side so I can determine what's really important. I've been reading books and talking to audio engineers who know the "real deal". Let me share my findings with you:
We found out years ago that THD is easy to manipulate through the use of negative loop feedback. Normally THD figures are given at a fixed frequency (say 2K as an example). By applying negative feedback at a fixed frequency you can lower the output impedance, raise the frquency response and at the same time lower the THD.
However, in real "life" we don't listen to music at fixed frequencies. The frequency range is quite variable. That's why Intermodulation Harmonic Distortion is much more important figure to know. Unfortunately, there is no real reliable way to measure that. So my point is THD is not a reliable figure to meausre performance.
The quality of the internal clock on a cd player is extremely important. The clock synchronizes the timing between the DAC and the transport. The more accurate the clock the more accurately the laser pick-up can read the disc at the required 44.1K frequency and the more accurately the DAC can interpet the digital information (1's and 0's)and complete the digital to analog conversion.
Although the mechanical coupling and physical build quality of the transport is important (hence the fame of TEAC's VRDS), the accuracy of the clock and the way in which it sychronizes the DAC and laser pick up is more MUCH MORE IMPORTANT. That has a direct effect on "timing jitter" in terms of delay in reading information. Though these delays are measured in pico seconds they do have a cumulative effect on the flow and musicality of the information you hear.
Power supplies are also extremely important. Mfg's love to throw around the term "we use a torroidal transformer" in our units. What's really important in a power supply is whether its a "switch mode" or "true linear power supply". A linear power supply is much more desirious and will improve the performance of the unit immensely. It also has the ability to provide "reserve power" when your system or the music demands it better than switch mode power supplies. Finally, switch modes power supplies are much noisier than linear power supplies.
Furthermore, its even better to have a power supply that's not only linear but also fully balanced. A fully balanced power supply will truncate (knock off) the asymetric part of the sine wave that produces noise from the power line. In truth, if you have high quality components (amps, cdp, pre-amps) that are fully balanced and utlize the better power supplies and transformers YOU DO NOT NEED external power conditioners. You do need surge protection. And better outlets (PS Audio/Hubbell) are helpful.
This whole industry of power conditioners came about because many mfg's (in an effort to save money and increase their profits) stop using high quality power supplies and transformers..especially on their lower end units. They've all sold us on the idea that the electricy coming off of your neighborhood transformer is dirty and noisy and can hurt the performance of your system. That is true...but the beauty of fully balanced power supplies with high quality transformers is they internally clean up the AC BEFORE it hits the internal circuitry of your unit and has a chance to degrade the audio performance. Keep in mind I'm strictly talking audio here. I don't know enough about the video side.
The point I'm trying to make here is don't ever take to much stock in the technical merits the mfg's advertise to you upfront. Worry more about what they're NOT TELLING YOU. Take time to learn about the components and parts in a cdp that are truly crucial and important and why. Guys like Alex and some of these other modders..they do know.
The sad truth is some of these higher quality parts are not even that expensive. Alex can buy a really high quality dac for $15. Or a high quality clock for $30. Which makes it even more disgusting and unacceptable as to how these mfg's can charge $3,000-$15,000 for a cdp and still not include the very highest quality parts available in the market. These modders can give you better units at much lower prices.
I'm not saying don't buy from a mfg. I still like many of the products on the market. What I am saying is do your research and find out what you're "really getting" in terms of quality of the components that really matter. The better companies will answer your questions and tell you the quality of parts used. If they can't tell you maybe you should have a modder check it within the return time frame to make sure its a quality piece. But whatever unit I by to replace my DV 50 you can be sure I'm going to be well informed in regards to exactly what did I buy. I'm tired of this "audio carousel". I want value and quality, value and quality, value and quality". It's not about how much money you spend...its about how smart you are in spending it!