ExactPower EP15A

Guido, Tvad (and the manufacturers he refers to) are correct, and you shouldn't use two-wire/two-prong cords with BP units IF the equipment you are using them with is originally designed with/for grounded AC plugs. Primarily for 1.) safety, and 2.) for noise cancellation benefits.

That said, I am using some two-prong equipment (tuner and cassette deck) plugged into my BP unit and they seem to work OK. I have wondered if I should rewire those units with a chassis ground to a three-prong plug, but it's a question I've yet to ask ExactPower. So if anyone has more info on this particular question, I'd be interest to know it.

Thanks for all of the info. It does sound like the SP15A is defintely worth trying with the only caveat being that I use an Electraglide Epiphany on my CDP. Nsgarch/Hassel have you noticed any sonic changes to the sound of either the EP15A or SP15A depending on which power cord is powering either of those units (from wall to EP15A or from EP15A to Sp15A)?

Babybear,
I decided to let my better PC/s (PS Audio Statement and Shunyata Black Mamba) work with my amps and front-end, and usemy Shunyata Sidewinder and a HMS PC with the EP-units. I did not really compare different settings, because I found that, once I had started to use the EP-units, it was hardly possible any longer to distinguish between the different PCs, when they already were being plugged into one of the EPs. In other words: My experience is that expensive PCs become much less important once you start to use an EP-combo, which obviously cleans out the electrical dirt that otherwise the PCs are supposed to filter out.

I agree w/ Hassel that the sonic improvements of the EP/SP override any subtle differences you'll hear between PC's -- with one exception: actually two:

1.) "The bigger the pipe, the better the flow." If you are using a 20A circuit (dedicated or not) it is house-wired with 10AWG per code. So IMO, always use a cord that's 10AWG (or bigger) to and between the power units and for your amp(s). Also, for reasons I don't understand from an engineering standpoint, CDP's and DAC's seem to like large wire sizes too. In any case, I recommend minimum 14AWG for equipment other than amps, conditioners, CDP's and DAC's.

2.) Even using a balanced power unit, when powering anything digital (including preamps etc. with digital readouts) always use a PC with a shield -- a shield that's tied to ground at the AC plug end and "floated" (disconnected) at the component end. Check with the manufacturer if you're not sure, because a lot of them don't say in their technical descriptions.

2a.) To the folks who argue that no highend mfr. would supply a crappy stock cord: in most cases they're right. However, look at the cord. It will state the AWG size and whether or not it's shielded. Except, if it is shielded, then there's a problem: in order to get a UL approval, the shield must be connected to ground at both ends, creating a ground loop. If you want to fix this, and save yourself some money, carefully remove a one inch section of the outer jacket near the component end and carefully cut out the shield. Then cover the wound with several turns of electrical tape, and you've got yourself a pretty respectable shielded PC.

Has anyone compared the ExactPower to the Audiophile Pure Power 1050 with battery conditioning? I don't want another transformer based conditioner.

This seems like an even cleaner solution to get the best of both worlds (Exactpower and PS Audio)

http://www.audiophileaps.com/