Has Anyone Here Tried The SVS Soundpath Feet On A Rel Sub?


Yes, Springs may be better. But unless I can fasten them to one of my subs, it won't work for my situation. Rel recommends the use of Blu-Tac under the OEM feet for isolation. But That won't work well in my situation either. The problem is that I have to move the right channel speakers because they are in the LR (UGH Why didn't I build my room before I got too old and the material too expensive SMH) . I'm considering Herbies Sliders for the mains. Yes, it may be a trade off. But that's life. Any suggestions besides getting rid of wife? Shes been with me for 46 yrs .
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I have carpet over a suspended wood floor above the basement. When I had my pair of RELs sitting on the floor it created too much resonance. I ordered the Auralux SubDudes and solved the issue, The great thing about it is I am not changing the distance from the down firing woofer as the SubDude has a firm, floor like surface underpinned by an isolating foam hence I am able to couple then decouple.
Do what sounds best period.

My Rel T9i sounded much better with a subdude platform.  The bass is way more defined and heard more. With the sub directly on the ground it is felt more but does not sound better in my application.
I have suspended wood floors.  The subdude did not work for me at all.  I got acoustic feedback from my turntable even though my REL528 SE subwoofer was far from the turntable.  I had to use blu-tak like REL recommended.  I also tried decoupling with Nobsound springs, but preferred the blu-tak sound in the end. Different strokes for different folks.
The issue is the passive radiator is NOT loaded in a slot.

The way this sub is designed it is for ONE thing to "Jackhammer".

Simply said it is made to vibrate the whole friggin' house..
Stacked would really amplify and increase the transfer.
I can't think of a worse design for fidelity... 1970-80s bass tech. 

The height of the sub off the floor will remove the boundary and first reflection point for the passive on the bottom. It would dissipate much quicker and produce a different standing wave issue (not a problem though)

I would add a thick bottom plate, with a 3-4" slot. Then isolate it with springs from the floor.... Pretty simple fix. You can block any side or sides of the slot.

I'm surprised anyone uses this type of sub in a stereo environment, maybe HT or a kids trunk.

Even the kids are learning to decouple 100hz < from the interior of their cars. It stops them from rattling apart "as bad". That's right SPRINGS between the bottom and top of the sub boxes with slot loaded, passive slots or IB (no ports).

Regards