Has Anyone Here Tried The SVS Soundpath Feet On A Rel Sub?

I have suspended wood floors.  The subdude did not work for me at all.  I got acoustic feedback from my turntable even though my REL528 SE subwoofer was far from the turntable.  I had to use blu-tak like REL recommended.  I also tried decoupling with Nobsound springs, but preferred the blu-tak sound in the end. Different strokes for different folks.

The issue is the passive radiator is NOT loaded in a slot.

The way this sub is designed it is for ONE thing to "Jackhammer".

Simply said it is made to vibrate the whole friggin' house..
Stacked would really amplify and increase the transfer.
I can't think of a worse design for fidelity... 1970-80s bass tech. 

The height of the sub off the floor will remove the boundary and first reflection point for the passive on the bottom. It would dissipate much quicker and produce a different standing wave issue (not a problem though)

I would add a thick bottom plate, with a 3-4" slot. Then isolate it with springs from the floor.... Pretty simple fix. You can block any side or sides of the slot.

I'm surprised anyone uses this type of sub in a stereo environment, maybe HT or a kids trunk.

Even the kids are learning to decouple 100hz < from the interior of their cars. It stops them from rattling apart "as bad". That's right SPRINGS between the bottom and top of the sub boxes with slot loaded, passive slots or IB (no ports).

Regards

Thanks guys. FWIW, my system sounds fabulous. But I've learned that through the tweaks I have made that it can sound even more fabulous. Thus my question? That said, ....
@b_limo & @ dadork    Thanks for the recommendation. Though it does seem to go against the REL design, I will check it out.

@rdk777    After reading and listening to the REL rep in the link I provided, I understand why you had the results you did.
@oldhvymec I understand your concerns. Honestly, I had the same thought AFTER I listened to the video which I posted. It's also the reason I said "isolation" in my OP because my mind would not accept the idea of coupling the sub.

That said, I've owned REL subs for 15-18 yrs. They have always been known as being excellent for music. Quite honestly, they sound great when properly set up. But early on users most always recommended turning the crossover as low as possible which sounded right and the volume no higher than necessary. the sub should disappear just like the speakers should do.

Most Most people who know me knows of my love of good bass. This is probably due to my playing drums for 50 yrs and the importance of hearing the bass. That said, I disagree with many who prefer the "fast & tight" bass of SS. I was never fully please with the SS amps because my experience tells me that bass is NOT tight.  It was only after trying a tube amp that I got "proper" sounding bass.

 I would recommend everyone to watch the Rel video. they talk about their filters being very important. I have no real electronics knowledge. But I know sound which is why I choose the Rel. But I will be re-thinking and trying to make sense of it all.

The only feet you ever put on a subwoofer are spikes. Any vibration of the subwoofer in operation is distortion. Ideally only the cone is supposed to vibrate but in real life Newton usually wins out and the whole enclosure shakes and actually moves. I have seen subs walk across an unlevel floor! Subs have to be held firmly in place. The best subs now use what is called a balanced force design. They put identical drivers in opposite sides of an enclosure and run them in phase so the forces cancel out. As long as the enclosure is super stiff this is the best way to build a subwoofer. Magico, Kef and others are now using this design. But, it requires a second driver elevating the cost. 

When you couple ANY frequency to anything other than the driver and its cabinet you get at least two different signals at two different times.

You can do it that way if you like the outcome, BUT the fact is it will be smeared.

The floor (no matter the construction) will deliver a BASS signal faster than the driver can push air.. In the seated position you will FEEL the signal before you hear it..

If that is what you like, then, that is what you like.. I don’t.. Never have..

Spike have NEVER worked.. They kind of work on a TT only because the rest of the TT shelf is isolated on air, springs or pods...

I worked around foundational ground support for to many years, there is no such thing as solid enough.. Everything moves, Everything vibrates..

How much is the question...

You will NEVER see a power plant spiked in a stationary spot. EVER they are isolated if not they would BREAK.

You don’t ask people who build speakers how to isolate things, you ask people who isolate Buildings and Bridges how to do it when there is an earthquake going on..

No need to play catchup, just READ how everyone else on the planet isolates STUFF.. Speakers are easy. People who DON’T know squat about destructive harmonics, need to learn a thing or two, first, before making statements like spikes work. They do something, just not a good thing, compared to isolation.

HD Field Mechanic Retired. Hydraulics.

You just think you know about vibration and dampening...

Regards