The issue is the passive radiator is NOT loaded in a slot.
The way this sub is designed it is for ONE thing to "Jackhammer".
Simply said it is made to vibrate the whole friggin' house..
Stacked would really amplify and increase the transfer.
I can't think of a worse design for fidelity... 1970-80s bass tech.
The height of the sub off the floor will remove the boundary and first reflection point for the passive on the bottom. It would dissipate much quicker and produce a different standing wave issue (not a problem though)
I would add a thick bottom plate, with a 3-4" slot. Then isolate it with springs from the floor.... Pretty simple fix. You can block any side or sides of the slot.
I'm surprised anyone uses this type of sub in a stereo environment, maybe HT or a kids trunk.
Even the kids are learning to decouple 100hz < from the interior of their cars. It stops them from rattling apart "as bad". That's right SPRINGS between the bottom and top of the sub boxes with slot loaded, passive slots or IB (no ports).
Regards
The way this sub is designed it is for ONE thing to "Jackhammer".
Simply said it is made to vibrate the whole friggin' house..
Stacked would really amplify and increase the transfer.
I can't think of a worse design for fidelity... 1970-80s bass tech.
The height of the sub off the floor will remove the boundary and first reflection point for the passive on the bottom. It would dissipate much quicker and produce a different standing wave issue (not a problem though)
I would add a thick bottom plate, with a 3-4" slot. Then isolate it with springs from the floor.... Pretty simple fix. You can block any side or sides of the slot.
I'm surprised anyone uses this type of sub in a stereo environment, maybe HT or a kids trunk.
Even the kids are learning to decouple 100hz < from the interior of their cars. It stops them from rattling apart "as bad". That's right SPRINGS between the bottom and top of the sub boxes with slot loaded, passive slots or IB (no ports).
Regards