High-pass line filter to relieve main speakers from low frequency


Hi everybody
I recently purchased a subwoofer, KEF Kf92. It has a built in low-pass filter, 24 dB, that can be set from 40-140 Hz. They go with ATC SCM20sl. Their specs are: 80-20 kHz +/- 2 dB, 55-25 kHz : - 6 dB (free standing, which they are, actually: free hanging).
I wonder whether it would be beneficial to insert an high-pass filter before the power amp, consisting of a capacitor with a set point of 65 Hz. This filter might not have a huge impact because the frequency of the ATC SMC20sl rolls off quickly by itself below 80 Hz, apparently by about 12 dB/octave.
My thinking however is: the loudspeakers still receive the complete energy of the low bass from the amp. They might not be able to convert it into sound, but instead convert it into heat and distortion. So a filter will make the life of the amp and speaker easier, since at 33 Hz, only a quarter of the energy is produced.
Do you agree with me?
b_mueller
Hello,
I have been using the JL Audio CR1 crossover. This is an Audiophile piece of gear. It has XLR and RCA which can be utilized at the same time. Also it has home theater bypass for the subs. It is not cheap. But it is awesome and works with all speakers and subs. It also has a few other features like damping and your choice of roll off. 
That's right Tom, analogue crossovers introduce phase shift. But, as Sd40 points out, 24 dB crossovers don't; then again, 24dB crossovers do retard the signal by 1 complete cycle at the crossover frequency. Actually, that's an oversimplification and it's more complicated than that, but you get the idea: analogue crossover design is hard.

Then there's the problem with components. You just can't expect $10 parts to sound like $500 parts, and even the most expensive parts are not neutral and will introduce their own sound.

This is the one arena where digital is far superior. Since your speakers fall off sharply, I suspect that your best bet is to not bother with a highpass crossover. But no-one knows until you try it.

IMO
Thank you all, I suppose almost all aspects have been covered by your comments.
Anyway, I bought a set of high-quality capacitors (Duelund JDM Silver Foil, 47 nF) and will insert them at the amp (input impedance 51 KOhm). I will report findings.
I‘ve done it - added a 47 nF Duelund silver cap in line at the power amp‘s input. I soldered between Eichmann bullets plugs and sockets, allowing quick removal. I dislike any modification that adds sockets, wires, soldering points, but there was no space inside the amp. When I used pink noise and measured frequency response in the room, the drop below 60 Hz is steeper, as was predicted for a high pass. Furthermore, the woofer extends much less, indicating less low freq power reaches the chassis.
On sound quality (with KEF Kf92) the effect ist not huge. There is a bit less stress and increased clarity. I will do more comparisons.
https://ibb.co/gFP5Vxw

In my Coda CSIB integrated amp which is excellent stock 

I made much better still the coupling cap is 1 uf ,I put a Jupiter copper foil  in there 

that was a major upgrade from the stock Rel caps , I felt to make it optimum I tried adding a .047uf  vh audio bypass cap which for sure is very transparent and close to ideal but lacks a bit of naturalness, the solution was the DuelUnd JDM .047 uf Silver foil paper,oil cap it is huge for its size but just fits give it a solid 75 hours to start settling in ,it is fantastic in the coupling position of the circuit on the outputs .

i have been using Duelund for years  and these new JDM are their best to date  very detailed and still naturally smooth .

which btw is their biggest bypass capacitor ,$220 for 2 ,but worth Every penny !!