How to tame the high of harbeth C7

Do you get that brightness on all music you're listening too? I'm not familiar with your speakers but your components do not tend to sound bright along with your wires as well except probably preamp.

As far as I know TL2.5 is not the best preamp for the budget you can get. You might look for Pass Aleph P or Plinius CD-LAD for replacement.

Before spending or upgrading you can experiment more with placement. Placing speakers so that they're completely parallel to each other can also tame some of brightness in sweet-spot position. You can also place them under angle to the floor by changing the height of the spikes or using adjustable feet. Place them either closer or more apart from each other and see how it works.

As far as I know Manley's amps have adjustable global feedback that you can play with(not shure if inside or outside the box) that can also help to tame the brightness.

You can also acquire Totem Beaks that bring UNBELIVABLE results in radiation and stage adjustment compared to mega-priced room treatments. You can hear and feel it right next to the speaker that you're placing the beak on top. It basically tend to adjust highs and upper-mids.

I can't now imagine my stage without Beaks! I often can come close to speaker and move it arround just a-bit not only to adjust for a specific music I listen to it's just simply fun!

I also think you should explore placement issues before investigating new electronics or cabling. However, I think you should look to make sure that you have eliminated or reduced your sidewall reflections. You would also want to play with toe in - many speakers are hot if listened to on or anywhere close to on axis. You can point them straight ahead or if you have problems with sidewall reflections you can try toe them in substantially crossing them well in front of the listening position. Give it a try - it cost zip.

Nice to see someone dispelling the notion that Harbeths are rolled off, but they aren't inherently bright either. As Newbee suggests, sidewall reflections and toe-in are worth considering, as are ceiling reflections and hard furniture reflections.

The other thing I would point to is the speaker stand height. I have my 7's on 16 inch stands. When I tried them on 21 inch stands they took on a completley different tonal character, still Harbeth clear and precise, but the whole lower midrange and bass was down 1-2 dbs. So, I would say first experiment with stand height. If the tweeters are lower than your ears, tilt the speakers back just a tiny bit.

I am not familiar with your preamp or amps, but if the output impedance of the preamp is high compared to the input impedance of the amps, that could cause a loss in the bass, which could in turn have the subjective effect of emphasizing the treble. If the Manleys have some sort of adjustment, that would be worth a try.

Finally, if you are bi-wiring, put the shorting straps (jumpers) back in and see what you think.

Do not put Totem beaks or anything else on your speakers. Totem speakers are designed to be inert. Harbeths have lossy boxes designed to resonate with low amplitude at unobjectionable frequencies. You will change their sound by putting something on them to something not intended by their designer.

Good luck, and feel free to email me.

Paul

Well, sir, it sure is not the speakers. I use my C7s on 22 inch stands and listen in near-field and they are not bright. (They are just RIGHT!) Everyone's suggestions as to looking at room interactions seem like the way to go.

Something is wrong, and I promise you should look somewhere other than the C7s, unless they are broken. I bet you will find something, on further inspection.

Enjoy your music,

Charlie

the 7's sound darker with solid state gear...i also know that if you downgrade your speaker wire it will eliminate the high sizzle inherent in these bbc type designs...you'll find you don't miss any music either...i would leave the manleys alone,they are classics...keep the wire simple........you'll notice an incredible difference.