Or Compact 7, or 7ES (I), they're all the same except for minor cosmetic differences and a slightly revised formulation of the woofer material in the last series (but not corresponding to the name change). The drivers, crossovers and cabinet specifications are all the same. They are very revealing. So a mismatch between preamp and amp, or an underpowered amp, or a bad amp will be revealed. How they will sound with a solid state amp depends on the solid state amp. If it's bright, they will sound bright. If it's dark, they will sound dark.
I have measured mine in a couple of real world rooms. They are dead flat from just below 50 hz to 1.6khz, then dip into the presence region coming back to flat at 5khz. In my larger room with no reflection problems, they then have a slight, very slight, roll-off after 12-13khz, but not much. In a smaller room with reflection problems from ceiling and walls or windows, because the tweeter has such wide dispersion, I have seen too much energy in the 6-10khz region, which can sound sizzly. This is not a fault of the speakers - they do not measure that way in an anechoic chamber or in my larger room, and other speakers in that smaller room have the same exaggerated response in the 6-10khz region. So, w/re the original question, the relationship between the speakers and the room is the first place to look.
And regarding the wires. The dealer from whom I bought my 7's (Alastair Gardner at Signals in the UK, who has sold more of them than anyone) recommends Nordost Blue Heaven, which is a little bright, if that is possible, and he wouldnt make that recommendation if it didnt make sense. I do use reputedly smoother AQ cables with mine.
Paul
