I need advice for power cords

In Europe you can have single phase or a 3-phase electrical system in your house (eg 1x230V at 35A or 3 taps of 230 V 25A). You can use 1 phase separate for your equipment and the other 2 for your all your other groups in your house. There will be no contamination from leds, dishwashers, microwaves, phone chargers etc..). If you have a oscilloscope you can check for the best phase with the least of noise from your neighbors. (I checked it at my listening hours)

If you want to do more, you can also put another earth rod in the ground for your audio system. There are some audio shops that provide this kind of service. I am an electrician myself and I worked at a cable company as a (test)engineer and I have some equipment at home (I am not on the level of a brilliant designer like Bruno Putzeys or Nelson Pass) but I understand the importance of low R,L,C values and a good foundation for your equipment. Tightening your screws and using contact enhancers is also a simple and good tweak to start with.
 

Try Pangea power cables at Audio Advisor. Very reasonable price. I use them with Spectral mono blocks and Spectral preamp. I am satisfied with the results.

In my experience after ripping out drywall for ceilings and walls running 4 dedicated lines  to a sub breaker box, my issues actually worsened.  

The AC power was that dirty in my house - in part from my own computers and electronics and in part from the regional grid - neighbors switch power supplies, etc.

This noise does travel retrograde.

Solution:  TORUS Power isolation transformer - I placed a 75A wall mount unit.   For those considering one and use tube amplifiers purchase a unit rated for 4x the measured power draw of your amplifiers.  If you system draws 10A, then a 40A unit would be appropriate.  

The other consideration is RF/EF radiation from LED lights and dimmer switches.  The dimmer switches (which function by rapid cycling current) create horrible AC noise that I measured polluting my dedicated lines.

I have a Primaluna HP integrated, and the Chinook.  I put Signal Cables PCs on them.  The improvement is subtle at best.   They weren't expensive, so I'm keeping them.  I did notice a bit more dynamics to the sound, but again, subtle.  I'm not convinced it would be much different if I spent $1k or even $10k on a PC.  Consider your overall system and the value it will add overall.  The Signal Cables were under $100 each.

As others have said, I'd start with the PL and Manley, and if you have a power conditioner, that too.  But, I don't see spending multiple hundreds on six feet of wire.

In Europe you can have single phase or a 3-phase electrical system in your house

So your in the Europe?. I have 3 phase access three poles down. Single phase at the house.  300 amp service, and a heck of angument to keep
my 45 + year old copper drops. I had to downgrade from 400 to 300 trying to replace the old 125 amp service.  I didn't and wouldn't change it.. PG&E wanted to use aluminum. The 3 phase on top of our service line were upgraded 30 plus years ago from 8kv to 20kv with new ALU line.  A few of us refused the new drop upgrade, I'll keep the copper....Whole different story..

The copper drop story.. lol


 Many of you have much more experience with cables than I do so what do you recommend and I can do the research. On a side note my McIntosh MC75's are vintage so old thin manufacturer cables and probably shouldn't change them. 

Actually you should, especially if it's the older MC75. Great power supplies demand less of a cable, kinda!! It also lets you ADD a 
ground for protection and, CAN help reduce floor noise in some cases.
All my old gear gets new, better, bigger conductors, to a point. Pure copper good insulator, high voltage cable if it will fit. There is a point where bigger is NOT better, like breaking stuff, or drilling on the old mac cases, NO NO.. The old Macs like good multi strand pure copper.  Though I've seen quite a few hardwired from PC to speaker runs, big improvements in some.
Regards