I've never believed much in cables, that said... (USB)


So, in 30+ years of being an audio geek of sorts I've never believed much in cables.  I've always felt once it's a decent gauge and quality (think basic Mogami XLR's and Canare 4s11 speaker) that they don't make much of a difference.  I do try occasionally and try to read the science to see if it makes sense.  

Over the years there have been a couple cables I thought MIGHT have been different (not better or worse, but different).

1.  Gregg Straley Reality cables - these are a solid core and I believe he cryo's them.  I felt the speaker cables MIGHT have brightened things up a bit.  60/40 on if they did, but I'm pretty sure they did.

2.  PS Audio AC3 power cables on my amp.  I inherited this cable with a used amp purchase so said what the hell, I'll try it.  Don't think it did a thing on the pre-amp.  But, with two different amps, I THINK it opened up the soundstage a bit.  Reading about it, I think that the whole highs/lows shapes of cables doesn't make a lot of sense.  But I did think it might make a big enough difference.  For what I essentially paid for it - I kept it and use it.  If anything it looks cool and does stay in the outlet with a vice like grip.  


That said.

Just got my first outboard DAC (oppo sonica) and started with a cheap USB cable then tried an audioquest cinnamon, clearly a difference to me.  I was shocked (and bummed in some ways). But it was obvious, so I tried an audioquest carbon - and yes, again I'm pretty darn sure I heard a difference and it was better.  Everything did have more separation and clarity without being brighter (which is what I thought speaker cables might have done).  This was clear.  It still makes little sense to me (0's and 1's).  I've tried to look at tests like at ASR... but man it's the first time I really felt I can hear a difference.  

Might try the PS audio power cord on the dac, but that means changing on the amp... so not sure if it would be fair or not!
dep14
Even USB need proper breakin I use roughly 300 hours and I. Have used several 
cables well over $500.  The top  cables use better materials ,better shielding, 
and power legg is totally isolated. That being said there are many other factors 
like myself I have a completely isolated usb board and all SS drives , filtering to the power supplies , which make a Huge improvement 
Jplay sell thevery good  usb boards, as well as Ethernet dedicated boards , that are 1000 times more quiet and isolated then stock computer boards , your music sounds much more pure and natural sounding , it is equal to or better then a more expensive dac upgrade.
then with a standard board from your graphics card . I also added Noktua 
best heat pipe for the computer processor . I have just one big very quiet 
Noktua side fan. All these things add up to a very good sounding digital setup.
and yes power cords and a dedicated line, copper outlets , and line conditioning 
all count .make your own server and saves a Lot of $$.
If you have a well designed DAC, it should be less sensitive to cable.  I have a Ayre QB9 DSD which has its own power supply, and the data inputs are optically isolated so it will not be as susceptible to noise coming from the USB cable.
In the under $300 category I've tried a few USB cables in the various iterations of my system:

AudioQuest Carbon
Belkin Gold
Black Cat Silverstar
Blue Jeans
dB Audio Labs Essential
iFi Gemini (dual-headed)
UpTone USPCB A>B Adapter

The newest addition is the UpTone Adapter. I purchased it because the form-factor is a perfect compliment for the microRendu and user reviews were quite positive. Best $35 I've spent on audio gear.

andy2
One of the differences (among many) between water and electricity is that before turning on the faucet in your kitchen, the kitchen does not have any water in the first place. But with electricity, even before you turn on the switch of the amp, the amp internally already has a bunch of electrons just waiting to get moving.

So intuitively, you think if the tiny fuse is the bottle neck because all the electrons have to be "squeezed" through such a tiny space, so why then adding a big fat power cable would make a difference?

One possible explanation is that electrons are so small so there are so many more of them than needed even through the tiny fuse. Another thing that helps is that the physical length of the fuse is very short so the electrons would just shoot through it without having any noticeble resistance or phase shift. Now if you increase the length of the fuse to say a "foot" then may be that could cause some problem.

The other explanation is the potential of the electrons in the fuse is at 120V they have a bit more juice before down converted through the transformer.

>>>>That’s an excellent theory except for one minor problem. Electrons aren’t really traveling through the wire or fuse. They are only the “charge carriers” and for all practical purposes they’re stationary. It’s the current that’s traveling. And the current is made up of photons.