klipsch cornwall iv upgraded crossovers

@eoj4952 Check out my Video. Crites has the Xover Cap values online but never measured the Inductors. I changed everything and updated the Xover to include the Inductor Value. It's all in my Video,

@rajugsw please tell me you have some before and after audio you can share. 

Actually never mind, I just found this guys video comparison Dynamat mod on Klipsch. Personally I think it sounded better before, less muffled.  Yes, different speaker but I think I’ve gotten my answer on that particular mod, the difference was actually more pronounced than I was expecting.  

https://forum.audiogon.com/posts/2350554

I’m not sure why one would consider posting frequency response curves as the work of a charlatan...it’s literally measured data. I mean, I’m not making a purchasing decision based solely off data, but hey...that’s just me.

For me, blind tests sound cool...but like...I only have so much time in the day. I’m cool with DSP, not spending boatloads on cables, and focusing on engineering. Is it psychoacoustics if I like some thing better than another? Possible. But I’m gonna do what I want, and would love to blind test stuff some day...but I’m not upending my life for it. Too much crap  to do.

And if a guy who builds/designs stereo equipment for a living says a cap is crap, I’m going to believe them. Also, I would tend to trust caps with different (exotic) materials with tighter manufacturing tolerances over ones made in China. FYI, I have a set of Genesis Technologies monitors and those have RelCaps in the crossover. The same caps Audio Research uses in a lot of their equipment. Are those two companies full of charlatans? I’d say no, but everyone has an opinion.

Also, those Genesis Technologies monitors sound damn fantastic (for a number of different reasons). Oh, and my Vandersteen high pass filters have Teflon caps in them. EIther RelCaps or Mundorf, I can’t remember off hand.

@larryi funny enough, I was at the local Klipsch Heritage dealer in town and he swears the Cornwalls sound better with solid state gear. He has his powered by a rebuild/refurbished Marantz 2330 receiver. Different strokes for different folks (I mean, I love my ProAcs with an SET amp), but I would have thought tubes would have been the ticket (although Marantz is known for their warm house sound).

As I said before, these modifications tune the speaker to fit the owner’s particular taste and system, and as such, the changes can be unfavorable.  A local dealer in my area makes custom speaker systems (mostly horn-based) and tuning involves trying external damping of the horn, applying thin felt strips to the inside of the horn, changing the type and amount of damping to the sides of the cabinet, changing crossover parts based on a prospective buyer’s preference, etc.  I get to hear these changes, and any one of them can result in dramatic changes.

The issue I have with the kind of modifications mentioned in the video is that a lot of people assume that certain types of changes are always better—more damping is better, more expensive caps are better than cheap ones, etc.  Additional cabinet damping might make the bass tighter, which one person may like, but someone else might find the sound to be too dry and lifeless.  The type and brand of caps that sound good is likewise subjective.  The custom builder I mentioned above thoroughly hates Mundorf caps in any of his speaker or electronic builds.

If you ever heard the effect of even a tiny change in the level of the midrange and tweeter, you will appreciate the value of L-pad attenuators controlling such drivers.  I don’t understand how manufacturers expect their designs to be optimized to the particular buyer’s taste and room acoustics such that such basic adjustment is not necessary.  The removal of such controls has to be among the worse modern design trends; reversing this by adding back controls would probably be the best modification one can try.