@tmalkki
I see you are into DIY speakers and your listening is through CD and streaming. Here's an alternative for your consideration: A digitally active system with high efficiency DIY speakers, room corrected, time-aligned, etc.
My view: given a limited amount of money spent on audio (non unconstrained budget) and if you can live with digital source only you will get better sound by avoiding expensive crossover parts and cabinets, a preamp, and design for a single purpose.
Pro speaker drivers have gotten VERY good over the years and are much higher efficiency than the audiophile brands. I'm working with an AMT tweeter at 102 dB sensitivity and mids at 98 dB. As it usually reinforced here and other places, good speaker-amp matching is key, and going active you can perfectly match the driver and the amp that will directly drive it, including flat impedance if the amp needs it. I'm designing for 2A3 SETs on midrange and tweeter - the importance of the first Watt, as many mentioned here :-)
One key is the DAC. Instead of audiophile 2-channel DACs you will need a 4, 6, or 8-channel DAC. You have exaSound e38 DAC, but most likely use a good pro ADC/DAC (they are called cards, but they aren't computer cards you place inside the PC :-)). That acts as DAC and directly drives amps. A key component. Have a look for example at Merging Technologies Hapi, Lynx Hilo, Prism Audio Titan.
The other key is software. I use Roon (and have used JRiver and HQPlayer and are all good) that plays back from my stored music files or from Tidal. Within Roon I run convolution with digital filters that are the crossovers and room correction, so the computer sends 8 channels through USB to the DAC, which directly drives the amps: 2 powered subs, 2 midbass, 2 for midranges, 2 for tweeters. This way, each amp is required to reproduce a limited frequency range (that is what they get in the input), which is a good thing because many tube amp struggle a bit with bass. The important software is what you use for deriving the convolution filters (I use Acourate).
I have B&W 804S which I've had for about 10 years since brand new. I started experimenting with active, removing the passive crossovers and implementing all corrections and loved it. Then I started exploring DIY speakers with pro drivers and I'm sold. I will end up selling my B&Ws, will build the DIY speakers, and have a positive balance of money to pay for improving other parts of the chain.
I realize it's a lot to digest. But would encourage you to consider it.
I hope it helps.
From 5-31Hello.
Clams are happy, and so will I be too. Don't want to dominate this format at all, but would like a couple of suggestions on a good first timer tube integrated. Will probably build my own full range speaker pair, concentrating on high efficiency drivers. Most of my listening is CD and HD streaming. No vinyl at the moment unfortunately. Thanks guys for the feedback this far. I have lots to learn.
I see you are into DIY speakers and your listening is through CD and streaming. Here's an alternative for your consideration: A digitally active system with high efficiency DIY speakers, room corrected, time-aligned, etc.
My view: given a limited amount of money spent on audio (non unconstrained budget) and if you can live with digital source only you will get better sound by avoiding expensive crossover parts and cabinets, a preamp, and design for a single purpose.
Pro speaker drivers have gotten VERY good over the years and are much higher efficiency than the audiophile brands. I'm working with an AMT tweeter at 102 dB sensitivity and mids at 98 dB. As it usually reinforced here and other places, good speaker-amp matching is key, and going active you can perfectly match the driver and the amp that will directly drive it, including flat impedance if the amp needs it. I'm designing for 2A3 SETs on midrange and tweeter - the importance of the first Watt, as many mentioned here :-)
One key is the DAC. Instead of audiophile 2-channel DACs you will need a 4, 6, or 8-channel DAC. You have exaSound e38 DAC, but most likely use a good pro ADC/DAC (they are called cards, but they aren't computer cards you place inside the PC :-)). That acts as DAC and directly drives amps. A key component. Have a look for example at Merging Technologies Hapi, Lynx Hilo, Prism Audio Titan.
The other key is software. I use Roon (and have used JRiver and HQPlayer and are all good) that plays back from my stored music files or from Tidal. Within Roon I run convolution with digital filters that are the crossovers and room correction, so the computer sends 8 channels through USB to the DAC, which directly drives the amps: 2 powered subs, 2 midbass, 2 for midranges, 2 for tweeters. This way, each amp is required to reproduce a limited frequency range (that is what they get in the input), which is a good thing because many tube amp struggle a bit with bass. The important software is what you use for deriving the convolution filters (I use Acourate).
I have B&W 804S which I've had for about 10 years since brand new. I started experimenting with active, removing the passive crossovers and implementing all corrections and loved it. Then I started exploring DIY speakers with pro drivers and I'm sold. I will end up selling my B&Ws, will build the DIY speakers, and have a positive balance of money to pay for improving other parts of the chain.
I realize it's a lot to digest. But would encourage you to consider it.
I hope it helps.