Mapleshade boards under speakers

Hi Sebrassch, I don't think I would use the glass coasters if I were you, although it can only take a few minutes to try it. Pierre from mapleshade says that using a disc or wafer under a point lessens the overall improvement. Let us know what you hear...

Sebraasch,

Your room's floor structure is well suited to benefit from wood platforms given my experience and the experience of those above. I tend to agree with Chashas1 about the glass casters, but am also a great believer in trying things out for myself to see what works best. I would try the oak boards without brass cones (directly on the floor or connected with dots of BluTack), with brass cones and casters, and with cones plus disks. I assume you are not interested in placing the brass cones directly onto the your new hardwoods...

It will take me a bit to make the stands but I will let you know the results. I do not know if it was this thread or another, but I also found some recycled rubber pucs (from car tires). I got the idea to look at HVAC sound and vibration isolators and thought these might work under the board. But if I am understanding your opinion it is to have the speaker on the board without spikes or should the speaker be spiked as well.

The Mapleshade folks suggest you should use cones between speakers and platforms, and platforms and the floor = twice isolated. I would just experiment to see what works best. Instead of buying four sets of cones right away if you don't already have them, buy two and and test them while driving only one side of your system. Test them on top of the platform, on the bottom, and on both top and bottom, and see which way sounds best to you.

I don't use any cones with my platforms, just connect the speakers to bamboo platforms with Blutack and have the platforms sitting directly on the hardwood floor. Not saying this is best, just works well enough for me for now - much better than having speakers sitting directly on the floor without wooden platforms.

Make sure it is the best kiln dried maple hand ruubed with just mineral or tung iol . I use 4" thick ones with oil finish and there is a very obvious changein my syste,. I now have very attractive slabs of very thick maple and brass cones. It look great. The system sound pretty much the way it always did it just loooks better.
Under my preamp a thick dampening pad had a obvious sonic impact. That is likely a function of keepining the tubes as still as I can. My Make shift pad is going to be replaced with a 5 inch tall sandbox of pure tiger maple if Timbernation sends it. I am gointo use finely powcered lead for damping and ballat atop giggantic brass feet I am making to order. They wiegh 20lbs a piece and will sit in a speceial high tension suspended cup. Total figure 100 KG- or 220lbs plus the pre.