MG1.6 crossover upgrade merits.

The MG1.6 has a simple crossover, two capacitors (one multi-element because of value) and an inductor. It is a good candidate for upgrade with top quality components, eg:musiccaps and aircoil inductor. These widgets aren't cheap! It will set me back about $200 to do one speaker, and I have three to do.

The components in the original crossover are not bad: Solen foil caps.

What is the opinion out there regarding whether such a crossover upgrade will yield improved performance. What will be different after the change? Has anyone done it?
There is a huge amount of information, including pics, on Audioasylum: speakers, then planar. You can then do a search in that section
I had a pair of 1.6s for about a year before doing the crossover upgrades. I can tell you there is a substantial improvement to be had by doing this. Everything you like about your 1.6s is taken up a notch. The most noticeable thing is the improved power handling and bass response. It's a no brainer in my opinion.
Do it!! I did a full crossover over-haul on my 3.6's and it has yielded HUGE improvements. Here is a picture of them, and here is yet another angle. I have a whole lot more then a few hundred dollars into mine and it is worth it. As it stands my 3.6's outperform every 20R I have heard, I have not heard 20.1's set up properly so I won't make any statements, but I suspect this will outperform the 20.1's in many area's. The soundstage is even bigger, more depth, texture, much better dynamic's, lower freq. response(very noticeable), and things just sound natural(even compared to before, which I thought was really good). I also rewired the speakers internally and bypassed all of the factory termination. Search the Audio Asylum there is a lot of information over there on this.
Make an outboard crossover consisting of an 8ga copper inductor of the correct value as well as a multicap made up of Cresendo film and foil caps.These purchases can be made at North Creek Music systems. Hard wire and rigidly mount these to a non ferrous metal base. Any hardware should be non ferrous as well. Metal base should be drilled and threaded for 1.5 ap Audiopoints.Binding posts should be Cardas solid copper, any necessary internal wire should be Sonoran hookup, solder should be Riehl Copper solder...All these devices work well for me..Follow this pattern and the difference will be huge..Tom