New listening room electrical design


I'm moving to anew house in a few weeks, and trying to figure out the electrical design.
My current room was designed by Rives and I have numerous dedicated lines in it, so, I'm somewhat familiar with the topic.
The new system proposed outline:
New dedicated subpanel, exclusively for the audio components (main located in the garage, adjacent to the new room).
I have 2 speakers (Avantgarde) with powered subs
2 separate JL Fathom subs
2 mono block amps (lamm ML2)
and number of front end component, locate on stand, that going to be on the side wall
(Preamp, crossover, TT and CD player)
I'm thinking:
Two lines with 2 duplex receptacles each to power avant-garde and JL subs
Two lines with one duplex each for Lamm mono blocks
Here is my main question:
For the preamp, crossover, TT and digital I have the following options:
1.   One line with two duplexes for the analog stuff
       Another line for digital
       3 duplex recptacles on 2 separate lines
2. One line (or two) and one power distribution box with 3-4 duplex receptacle, connected to the wall receptacle
3. Two lines hardwired (no wall receptacle and no IEC and power cord in the Power distr. box) to power distribution box, separating analog from digital receptacles inside the box

What is a better approach for the front end components?
Multiple lines feeding one duplex each,
One line feeding multiple duplexes
One line feeding power distribution box?
maril555
Jea48
i don't know the feeder size, bu the one I have in my current home is pretty big
you can see it in my system pics
what size do you think I'd need?
And what is your opinion on twisting the wires?
Tx
jea48:

The Synergistic Research Black outlet is a TR (tamper resistant) outlet. 
I do think it does a fabulous job of improving the system's sound.

David Pritchard

one more question- how would you suggest to install 2, or 3 duplexes on the same line in the same location?


The wiring method depends on the construction of the house. Without knowing the construction of the house there is no easy answer to your question. The electrician you hire will look over the construction of the house and will determine the options of the wiring methods he will have. He then should explain the options to you.

Things to consider:

Wood stick framing? Other?

Basement? Unfinished or finished ceiling in area below the audio room?

Foundation crawl space?

House/audio room built on a concrete slab?

Above ceiling attic accessible crawl space? Other?


//


i don’t know the feeder size, bu the one I have in my current home is pretty big
you can see it in my system pics
what size do you think I’d need?

Well if you are going to spend the money to have a sub panel installed the bare minimum size in my opinion would 70 amp. Wire size #4 copper. Or bump up to #3 which is good for 85 amps.

What is the aprox total length of the feeder? Include up down and all around in the calculation. Does the garage have an accessible attic crawl space to install the feeder? If so you might want to consider NM-B sheathed cable or MC instead of conduit with loose random conductors pulled inside. Depends on the total run, length, of the conduit and installed feeder conductors.


Read pages 1 through 36.

http://centralindianaaes.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/indy-aes-2012-seminar-w-notes-v1-0.pdf

//


And what is your opinion on twisting the wires?


Twisting the wires? As in wires, conductors, that are pulled in an empty conduit? Not sure that meets NEC (National Electrical Code). Note: Dedicated branch circuits should never share the same conduit or raceway with other branch circuits. That includes multi conductor cables.

For the branch circuit wiring from the sub panel to the wall receptacle outlet boxes I would use NM-B cable, Romex. (If local code permits. And or the wiring method that must be used will meet local code for NM-B cable.) If the wiring must be in conduit ask the electrician if aluminum armor MC cable, 2 wire with ground, meets local code. Note: MC, not AC cable.

(MC comes in both solid core and strand copper conductors. Specify solid core only. Beings you will be using #10 wire the electrician will try to talk you into using stranded. He will tell you they are both rated for 30 amps. Stand your ground, Solid core only.


Example of 10-2 with ground MC cable with aluminum armor.

http://www.lowes.com/pd/250-ft-10-2-Solid-Aluminum-MC-Cable/3637694





David Pritchard said:

The Synergistic Research Black outlet is a TR (tamper resistant) outlet.
I do think it does a fabulous job of improving the system’s sound.

Thanks for the info.

Just going from memory I believe Synergistic Research has Leviton build their receptacles. Adding the TR face plate is easy to do, for a price, and thereby makes the duplex receptacle code compliant for use in a residential dwelling.

Just a guess others will follow. They are probably trying to sell off their existing inventory first. That still doesn't make it right, code compliant, though.






Jea48,
Thanks again.
The room and garage are in the above the grade basement, an concrete slab
no crawl space under the slab
Subpanel will be about 10-12 Ft. away from the main panel, and can be located on the wall, separating garage from the audio room.
The 3 walls of the audio room are sheetrock on studs over concrete
The other side wall is internal, non-bearing, sheetrock on studs, that is likely will need to be reinforced.
The ceiling is finished, with the living room, kitchen above it.
I would imagine, there is some space for the wiring.
MC vs. MC armored cable duly noted