New Power Cable on a 1990 Hafler DH120?


Is it worth putting an upgraded power cord on my 1990 Hafler DH120?  I am considering upgrading because it is rather old.  Still sounds good IMO.  Maybe I could get some better sound with a new cable.  Considering a GR Research cable.

Thoughts?

wlp3

Agree with the above comments, especially in terms of the priority/order in which things ought to be done.  Go ahead and replace that old power cord--but do the other stuff first.  Could be a very satisfying project!

                        Be careful with your acceptance of advice!

     When choosing the values of a power supply's filter caps, it's important to understand how the supply/circuitry functions.

     ie: When a DH-120 is switched on: the capacitors initially present (what appears to be) a dead short to the amp's 8A (OEM) rectifier bridge.   The greater the filter capacitance: the higher the current necessary to charge the caps.

     Increasing the capacitance beyond a certain point, in most amps; it's easy to end up with blown rectifiers (possibly: a burnt transformer).

     Of course: much of the above depends on how well the amp is protected, but: too much capacitance is simply asking for trouble. 

     It's always been my practice, when addressing power amp improvements (50+ years now), to first upgrade the rectifiers/rectifier tube/bridge, as that's always made the most marked/audible uptick in presentation.    WHY?   Because, in most cases: manufacturers don't use the best/most expensive parts they can find.

     An increase in filter capacitance can reduce ripple in a power supply, but: going too far can change (decrease) conduction angles, increase peak currents and result in EMI/noise generation, in/from SS rectifiers.     The harmonics of that EMI/noise can easily defeat any performance gains, gleaned from ripple reduction.

https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/217212/how-can-i-observe-rectifier-switching-noise

'The two large power supply capacitors, being 30 years old and electrolytic, probably only have about 1/3-1/2 of their original capacity.  Buy new drop-in replacements - the largest that you can fit into the band-clamps (in other words same form factor, same or higher voltage, BIGGEST CAPACITANCE POSSIBLE). "

                                             +1 for the rest of that post, of course.

So, with a big, heatsinked 35 amp bridge i have put 1/4 Farad (eread that again, yes F) in a DH-200. and if you do blow it up its $3 online for a new bridge. So a giant "meh" to the worries.

 

That said the comments are true. There WILL be a bigger inrush. I would either build a slow-turn on circuit (series R, parallel relay, 15V trigger for coil) or place an appropriate surge-suppressing NTC varistor in line with it. They will absorb the surge with maybe 5 ohms, then cool back down and drop to near zero. Work great, cheap, easy. There’s an opposite approach possible with a PTC unit. I would insert a link, but every time i try to help out the mods here block my link thinking it must be a way to circumvent Audiogon making money on a sale :-(

 

realityu note: the 1/4F was a "hero experiment". Way past diminishing returns. But i’d go for 30-50,000 uF ( at as i recall 63V or higher). That ought ot make it sing. Bypass each (across the terminals) witha 100V dc film type which will have dialectic absorption ( the big sonic parameter) of roughly 50-100x better than a typical electrolytic.

 

Have fun. Cord will certainly cost more and do less.

 

Some think zero, others disagree.

Certainly the other mods you suggest would make real differences.
Including the outlet.

Compared to the cord, they are useful things. 

@itsjustme -

       In my book: informing another on ways to prevent catastrophic failures (ie: upgrading rectifiers, etc), BEFORE they cause them (ie: by installing biggest capacitance possible), is simply sagacious, but- that’s just me.

              A transformer failure is a real possibility and much more expensive than $3.00.

              But then: why should YOU have, "worries", about THEIR results, right?

                                                              ie:

So, with a big, heatsinked 35 amp bridge i have put 1/4 Farad (eread that again, yes F) in a DH-200. and if you do blow it up its $3 online for a new bridge. SO A GIANT "MEH" TO THE WORRIES.