Non-Latching or No Latch Female XLR Connector


My gaer has the non-latching or no latch female XLR connector installed as input. This is the first time I have a machine with such connector. Usually it would have a "PUSH" botton at the 12 oclock position for you to push in to release the cable.

Now without such "PUSH" botton, how can I change the installed cable if I want to try different cable later?

Hope someone had experiences with non-latching female XLR connector can provide the proper way to release connected cable.

Thanks in advance.

Otto
yu11375
Thanks Rodman99999.

I tried that way but the cable won't come out. Maybe it has latch but no release "PUSH" button.
What is the brand/model of your gear/amp?

My Rowland M925 amps use non-latching XLR IC input connectors. Tugging/pulling on the connector barrel of the IC is sufficient to release the connection. However, your connector may be of a different type... it might require you to push in gently and twist the IC barrel equally gently anti-clockwise to induce a release.

Do not force it.

You might need to consult the user manual of your device(s), or contact the manufacturer directly.
My Mackie Onyx 32.4 has no-latch XLR chassis receptacles too(28 females). Some Neutrik chassis receptacles have a spring retainer, instead of a latch. ie: (http://www.neutrik.com/en/xlr/a-series/nc3fah-0) If you can see the locking window(slot) in the male IC plug, you should be able to depress the spring with a small(jeweler's type) screwdriver, IF required. It's supposed to take 14.75lbs/ft(20N), to pull the plug from a(Neutrik) receptacle(without a screwdriver). IF NOT; Mr G offered good advice, regarding the manual/contacting the manufacturer. I've never seen a twist release, 3 pin XLR, but- I supposed anything's possible.
Thank you Rodman99999. Yes, I can see the spring retainer but can't press the spring from outside the box. I opened the cover of the gear and was able to press the spring retainer from inside.

My fundamental question is what is the benefit to install such inconvenient connector. Also what would be the long term solution to this kind of connection.

Thank you Guidocorona as well. But I don't have guts to try that way as I have very clumsy hands. I twisted the same IC cable (Stealth) three times already.

I can't think of a benefit, unless the equipment/cabling was in a location that allowed for tampering. The solution would be to replace the chassis receptacles with the latching types. Personally; I would choose from those with either silver or gold plated contact points. ie: (http://www.neutrik.com/en/xlr/xlr-chassis-connectors/a-series/) (http://www.neutrik.com/en/xlr/xlr-chassis-connectors/d-series/) (http://www.switchcraft.com/productsummary.aspx?Parent=476)