outboard crossover users, how important is the hook up wire from crossover to drivers.

I’m running Shindo and vintage Altecs Valencias from 1968, along with a Jagusch crossover . I’m using Auditorium 23 from amp to crossover, and short runs of Duelund 16 GA (oil tinned copper) from X-over to drivers. I experimented with Belden (orange/black) in there, but preferred the organic presentation of the Duelunds. My Auditorium is 2.5 meter, and the Duelund runs are about 3 ft, so I’m keeping signal paths short. Allow me to cut to the chase...I have purchased an extra run of Auditorium, equal in length to my current pair. I am considering using one of my A23 cables in place of the Duelund. The Auditorium would have to be cut and re-terminated to make this happen. I’m also aware that this would throw an ax in their resale value, but I’m ok with that. I like the Duelund, but as the old adage goes...your system is only as good as it’s weakest link.


Situations like this is why I like to keep things simple.

I built my main cables out of Mogami 11 Gauge (yeah, a weird size, metric so what can I do?) and then from the crossover comes Mogami 12 gauge.  Forgot the model numbers but one is basically a quad version of the other. 

The one channel option is a great idea. However, the A23 stock cable (and most all other twisted strand cables) will not allow me to reach the woofer and horn. So the cable would need some surgery regardless.


Not sure if I’m understanding you johnk...? Current configuration is. Auditorium 23 from Shindo monos to Werner Jagusch crossover. The X-over sits on the floor under my speaker...Then there are 4 single wire runs of Duelund running from crossover to each speaker. I use bare wire runs on the Duelund...A23 is standard banana configuration.

@johnk  I have tried the Duelund tin plated (same as tweeter and mid driver wire) as speaker wire, bare wire connections, prefer my Cardas with connectors.


If I went full bore with this and your other post, I'd go with Cardas sans connectors and ditch binding posts at both amps and crossover.


And then we have issue of power cable connectors, ditching those requires inline fuse holder in components and lots of work to modify my power conditioner. One can get really crazy with this!

EXTREMELY, depending on the jumpers that come with them, and your speaker cables. Case in point:

Emerald Physics Open Baffle's weakest link was the pathetic quality of the supplied jumpers for 2 reasons

1. the pathetically cheap jumpers sounded like crap, which is a major reason why the speakers weren't more popular

2. they were too short, forcing the XOs to be placed on the bases, which shake like crazy when music is playing