PC & Dedicated Power Lines Questions


I'm about ready to upgrade my powerlines with dedicated 10awg 20A runs. To see what's in my system, click "system". I have just added a Shunyata Hydra 8, but haven't upgraded it's power cord yet (thought I'd make my own). A little background, I'm a electronic tech and I work on big servo looped systems (CNC mills, stretch presses that are analog feedback). So I know how important it is for good cableing with no noise. Most my power cords are DIY with either 10AWG wire or beldon 83803 with Oyaide P/C-79 connectors. My amps still have the OEM cords for now untill I get my incoming power straightened out.
Question 1) I was going to add 3 incoming lines with 10AWG wire on 20A curcuits off of the same leg or phase. One for each mono amp (might add my soround amps on them too) and a third to power all the front end stuff including a TV. Is this overkill? Should I just plug the hydra in my already supplied 15A line (it has a pass-Seymour outlet) and just add dedicated power for my amps?
Question 2) Power Cords. I just can't beleave the cost of these!! I can get hi quality fine strand 10awg copper twisted 4 conductor cable for free. I also have a bunch of 5 cond 16awg twisted with sheild. I was tempted to make power cords for my amps and Hydra from this and I have made some power strips already with Oyaide and Pass & Seymour outlets (see my system for pic under Oyaide). The Beldon 83803 is a PITA to work with and in my field it is considered cheap cable. I'm suriosly looking at VH Audio Flavor 4 DIY cords with Oyaide connectors. Flovor 4 for amps and Flavor 2 fro my Preamp. I have a sheilded beldon on my CD player now. What are your thoughts?? What PC cord should I use for the Hydra, was going to buy a used Shunyata Python Alpha, but just thinking of making a flavor 4 for it? Sorry for the long post but am curious to opinions. Thanks.
Scott
sgsoundnut
Scott, I find the surge protection clamping circuits in most conditioners often affect sonics, but more important, they don't adequately protect your equipment from the really bad stuff (lightening strikes.)

And as others already rightly pointed out, you probably will get best performance from the ded. cts. alone, so why add a dynamics-degrading conditioner just for surge protection?

Here's a great solution that's inexpensive (about $2.50 for four dedicated circuits ;-) and highly effective: wire a high speed diode (MOV device) between the "house" side of each dedicated circuit breaker, and ground, inside the panel. Any surge will close the diode and trip the breaker before it can even reach your equipment (that's why it's called a 'high speed' diode). You'll simply have to replace the poor little diode, which sacrificed its life for your gear ;-)
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You can order the Jena Labs outlets direct from Jena Labs. Here's the web site link:
www.jenalabs.com/ac-products/ac-parts.html

Lloyd Walker introduced me to these outlets. He uses them in his own system and in his incredible Velocitors. Jena Crock has Hubbell manufacture these for her in a special production run using some of their 30 amp back plane parts but configured as a 15-20m amp outlet. She then takes them through a deep immersion, long cycle cryo treatment.

I don't have any experience with power cords on a Hydra, sorry. I do like the Silent Source Signature power cords sold by Lloyd Walker and use them here on the Atma-Sphere MA-2 amps with good results.
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Thanks for the comments and links. I feel PC can make a big difference but are the results worth some of the $$$ asked for the product being sold. Some of the stuff I see makes me laugh, some of it is just SO cord with a fancy cover and Pass & Seymore plugs from Home Depot!! I'm sure some results can be good some bad from a aftermarket PC. I was looking at Shunyata's Python, I'm sure it's a great cord, but I think I'm drawn in from the bling factor of them more than what it will do. I really don't think you need to spend thousands of dollars on power cords to gain advantages. I've been reading threads about them and I'm skeptical to a point. I do believe you need quality stuff, but I feel there's a limit to their gain for the dollar. Incomeing power is very important I feel, do I need 10 AWG?? Most likely not.. Prabaly # 12 would be fine, but knowing me, I'll run # 10. As for the MOV's, yes this something I have thought about and it's a good idea. I'm glad to hear your opinion. I can get them for free from work...LOL, as we use them allot on our CNC mills and equipment at work. We use clamping diodes allot for noise also on switching gear. Thanks for the comments and keep them coming, always like to learn things and value knowledgeable comments.
Scott
Porterports, from Albert are wonderful. You can try the Jena, but buy yourself a Porterport and do your best to compare.
Scott,

For what it’s worth I third the Porterports, from Albert. Read my review here: http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr.pl?raccs&1065488253&openfrom&1&4#1

The Flavor 4 is not a bad way to go read my review here:
http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr.pl?rcabl&1068406189&openfrom&1&4#1

I totally agree with Rushton regarding I always separate the digital from everything else.

I did some extensive auditioning with several high end line conditioners in my systems and another audiophile’s high end system. We also both owned the original Hydra and had dedicated 10awg 20 amp runs. We found that the line conditioners we tried actually limited the dynamics of sound and detail. In other words the music sounded better when the components were plugged directly into a high end outlet on a dedicated circuit (excluding the Clear Image T-4). This may be system dependent or area dependent.

Finally take a look at my power filtration system in my systems that I have posted on Audiogon, it will give you another slightly different perspective.