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PC & Dedicated Power Lines Questions

I'm about ready to upgrade my powerlines with dedicated 10awg 20A runs. To see what's in my system, click "system". I have just added a Shunyata Hydra 8, but haven't upgraded it's power cord yet (thought I'd make my own). A little background, I'm a electronic tech and I work on big servo looped systems (CNC mills, stretch presses that are analog feedback). So I know how important it is for good cableing with no noise. Most my power cords are DIY with either 10AWG wire or beldon 83803 with Oyaide P/C-79 connectors. My amps still have the OEM cords for now untill I get my incoming power straightened out.
Question 1) I was going to add 3 incoming lines with 10AWG wire on 20A curcuits off of the same leg or phase. One for each mono amp (might add my soround amps on them too) and a third to power all the front end stuff including a TV. Is this overkill? Should I just plug the hydra in my already supplied 15A line (it has a pass-Seymour outlet) and just add dedicated power for my amps?
Question 2) Power Cords. I just can't beleave the cost of these!! I can get hi quality fine strand 10awg copper twisted 4 conductor cable for free. I also have a bunch of 5 cond 16awg twisted with sheild. I was tempted to make power cords for my amps and Hydra from this and I have made some power strips already with Oyaide and Pass & Seymour outlets (see my system for pic under Oyaide). The Beldon 83803 is a PITA to work with and in my field it is considered cheap cable. I'm suriosly looking at VH Audio Flavor 4 DIY cords with Oyaide connectors. Flovor 4 for amps and Flavor 2 fro my Preamp. I have a sheilded beldon on my CD player now. What are your thoughts?? What PC cord should I use for the Hydra, was going to buy a used Shunyata Python Alpha, but just thinking of making a flavor 4 for it? Sorry for the long post but am curious to opinions. Thanks.
Scott
sgsoundnut
sgsoundnut OP
17 posts
 
The Hydra is a unique conditioner, it really doesn't have much in circuitry inside it. I know it uses MOV's and it's made in the beutifull state of WA where I live. We have lots of wind storms in the winter sometimes causing major power bumps and sags and outages. I lost my power for almost a week last year. So I hate to have all that $$ gear just plugged in the wall. But we'll see. So are running the Oflex cable in your walls?? I'm curious now if this cable might be a good idea to try. I have about 20' of it now. I'm off all week but when I return to work I'm going to check around and if I can find some laying around.
Scott
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lak
4,593 posts
 
01-02-03: Lak
Here is some information from one of my posts on Audiogon (another similar topic).

“I have experimented over the last 6 months with various wires to use for dedicated 20-amp circuits. I have the following wire in use in no special order:
1) 10 gage Romex
2) 10 gage UV
3) Belden 83802
4) Virtual Dynamics 10 gage BX Cryogenically treated with Cryo’d circuit breaker. *

I have not tried the following but I’m sure it works, 10 gage solid THHN (white/black/green) manually (electric drill) spiral twist and snake through conduit.

To my ears on my revealing system I hear NO difference between (1-4)! I think simply using a dedicated circuit with 10 gage copper makes the biggest difference.

I hope all that read this find it helpful, it’s cost me about $500 (out of my own pocket) to complete the testing for my own peace of mind.

* There might be other positive factors to using cryogenically treated wiring besides sonics. It might lower the operating temperature of equipment.
sgsoundnut OP
17 posts
 
Larry, thanks for the info and the email. Good stuff. I have been thinking about twisting solid (or stranded) 10 AWG with a drill and doing it that way also. Funny it was my dad that said to do it that way. He say's...LOL.. "in old analog tube computers (early 60's)we would just chuck the wire in a drill and twist it, we couldn't have any noise". What is the UV wire (item 2)? I do have a roll about 20' of that Oflex (mentioned earlier) in 10 AWG 4 cond twisted cable with no shield and 19' of 5 cond #16 with a braid sheild and clear covering over it. Enough for a couple of circuits. I could use stranded in 3/8" metal flex also, it sure beats solid wire for ease of work. I don't know about the cryo stuff that's all new to me. We freeze metal at work in big freezers before we mill it or stretch it (aluminum), it makes it softer and does something about alligning all ...I don't know atoms I guess.. Also bought 3 Porter Ports today from Albert.. I was going to get Wattgates or Oyaides, but I can get 4 ports for one Wattgate.. Any advice about getting it up my walls?? I was going to cut the sheetrock in my basement but to get it upstairs I have to go through allot of space.. Between the ceiling and the upstairs floor and floor plates. It's 2x6 construction, but lots of insulation.
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lak
4,593 posts
 
UV is similar to Romex but it’s got the thick gray covering to be buried under ground.
tbg
5,263 posts
 
I know it is opening pandora's box, but I have two dedicated lines in my room and only use one. I have only found limited success with ac filtering and none at all with surge protection devices. My house was once hit by lightening with a surge protector on my computer. Both were taken out by the strike. Later with my entire system on and plugged into a Sound Application filter, lightening struck the water heater only 6 feet away. The strike took out my garage opener, the intercom system, my wireless phones, and blew a hole in my gas line. My stereo system was unaffected. When we have a storm, I unplug everything.

If you get a surge device, get one with a guarantee. You will need it. Your sound will be worse as a result of using it.

I have everything plugged into a single IsoClean wall outlet but only the line stage has an ac ground. This is far superior to any sound I have had before, largely I think due to the Stealth Dream power cords.
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