power conditioning question gentlemen


      I,m considering a power conditioner /surge unit ,Two sunfire subs,nu vista intergrated(draws some juice) ,transport,dac,tt, phono section (dc-ac i may just plug in wall)  .Dedicated 20amp run directly to room x 2 hospital grade rec. I have been looking into richard grays,furman ref,shunyata etc.I have a unique set up here in nor cal.I am completley off grid!,I run a serious solar and res set up with a genny back up.The power is pretty consistant although during changes in genny start up or at time it does fluctuate a little .I never hear it or have never measured a spiked it drops slightly during those milliseconds.I would like to snag a used one in the 1k range .
thoughts??

128x128oleschool
    Thanks guys, especially eric you always seem to have a valid suggestion.I know my system may not be in the 6 digits but it is dam nice and my modded nuvista punches way above its 5k retail back in the day.if anything it certainly has power at 275 a side and 40 peak amps.I love my adagios there reviews speak for themselves.
      I can say i will order a cple smp and run them in my ht room immediatley .I always unplug every audio ac plug when not in use .I have never had a surge on this setup in 6 yrs.If anything like i said its a milliseconds fall off when the genny shuts off .The genny again only charges the batteries it does not provide power to my house.As i said it does have some legs off it to run additional things around my ranch only when runningif i need the big juice. .
 
    These work only when the genny is running and are not ! in my house,spring house or my 500sq ft tree house 30' in a giant redwood( guest house with a zipline to my pond ) .I can run a large 220v compressor on my batts but when it starts my lights show it for a millisecond. This is a real deal setup over 80 k.

      Lak ,i believe you are correct,i do not need to condition my power imo.I just was thinking what beneifit if any i would achieve if i had a toroidial type set up directly next to my amp to provide instant juice if nessasary and  to delete that slight flutter when it switches.The genny is on an autostart,when the voltage drops to roughly 70% battery it starts auto and takes it to 100% i can have  normal type things running like fridge, 55tv, pond pumps, fans, microwave, etc etc for hrs and hrs .In the summer, like know i could have probly 7 k rollin all day for zzippp! My genny may run for a cple hrs here and there once a night always,rarely before dark,even when im in my studio playing music.
 
      There isn,t even a pole for power within 7miles of my ranch.I'm 12 miles from a 4light town, 40miles from a wallmart and 120 from a real airport. There are alot of musicians that hide out up here and nobody even knows. :-)  many retired late 60-70s frisco musicians .I will not say who :-)
But alot where at woodstock lol

  Thanks again for the input,has anyone tried one of these Core setups from mark? or the powerblock thing gray had 400 ,1200 etc.I know they may be useless if your not in my situation or so people say ,again i think i may like it..




Oleschool,
If you have a dedicated line to your audio system then you may not get "noise" on the line given your setup. If however you have other appliances etc. on the same line, then even though you generate your own power there will be noise on the line. A balanced power device.... (and I will cite the Equi=tech web site here)

"When 120-volt AC power is balanced, one side of the circuit has +60 Volts to ground while the other has -60 Volts to ground. (Across the circuit, the usual 120 Volts is still present".

"Standard unbalanced AC power systems have a "hot" conductor and a "neutral" conductor. In the US, the "hot" conductor nominally has 120 Volts to ground and the "neutral" conductor has 0 Volts to ground".

"In a balanced power system, the voltages on the system's two output terminals are 180 degrees out of phase to each other with respect to ground. The system reference (ground) originates at the output center tap of an AC isolation transformer. In other words, the system's grounding reference (zero position) is located at the system's mean voltage differential or zero crossing point of the AC sinewave. This is a far more effective way to establish a reference potential for an AC system. The center tap is then grounded to Earth for electrical safety and for referencing shields".

"There is never any voltage or current present on the ground reference in a balanced power system. Transient voltages and reactive currents which normally would appear on the neutral and ground wires are also out of phase and likewise, sum to zero at the ground reference thereby canceling out AC hum and noise".

"A balanced AC Power system works the same way as a balanced audio circuit but with a higher amplitude. Both balanced audio and balanced AC incorporate phase cancellation or common mode rejection to eliminate noise".

So as you can see, with balanced power you will always have noise free, clean electrical power to your system. You need only have a transformer large enough in the unit to drive your amplifier. Most improvements will be seen in front end equipment by the way. The Furman  P2400-IT sells for $2400.00 and gives you both balanced power as well as surge protection. The term "power conditioning" gets a little weird due to many interpretations. Here is the link to the Furman.

http://www.furmansound.com/product.php?div=01&id=P-2400IT

Full disclosure here; I have no connection to any company related to this topic. I am merely sharing research I have conducted. For more good information check out the Equi=Tech website an yes, that is an equal sign.


Thanks man now thats is some good info .. How about these core units they are 60/60 out of phase or something like that ... 1800 w is 1500 bks mark seemed to tjink it would work well 
thanks again for your time 
I ditched power conditioners after I installed Furutech GTX-D duplex. But I only need 2 ac outlets. I now go directly into the wall duplex.  Substantially cleaned/opened up the all facets of sound reproduction in a costly system... If you need more get another. That leaves power surge protection. Had an audio/electrical engineer build me a coulpe of small wall plug in surge protectors that can be plugged into any outlet on the same circuit as your equipment without interfering with that equipment. Any outlet. even rooms away if on same circuit. Just had a humongous electrical storm in central NY. You may have read about it. House grid never suffered. So I think they work. Charged me $40 apiece. That's all. Might be something you can get commercially.
Parallel surge protectors are not all that, and I've seen them fail en mass. Not pretty.

First, they age and you have no idea how much. Second, they are slow. Third, their effectiveness can be compromised by the impedance of the electrical wiring. Lastly they may not even work.

Yeah, ok, maybe they sound better ( I doubt it) but for absolute protection it's series or nothing.

In addition to that, parallel units are slow. They take time to react. Series do not. They are designed as low pass filters, which means that a fast signal like a lightning strike can't pass through before it clamps. A parallel unit, most cheap, will let the spike pass before it clamps.  Repeatedly.

Best,

Erik