power conditioning question gentlemen


      I,m considering a power conditioner /surge unit ,Two sunfire subs,nu vista intergrated(draws some juice) ,transport,dac,tt, phono section (dc-ac i may just plug in wall)  .Dedicated 20amp run directly to room x 2 hospital grade rec. I have been looking into richard grays,furman ref,shunyata etc.I have a unique set up here in nor cal.I am completley off grid!,I run a serious solar and res set up with a genny back up.The power is pretty consistant although during changes in genny start up or at time it does fluctuate a little .I never hear it or have never measured a spiked it drops slightly during those milliseconds.I would like to snag a used one in the 1k range .
thoughts??

128x128oleschool
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Hi @rippet,

Sorry I may have misread. If you were saying these units worked on the circuit, regardless of whether or not the items being "protected" were in series, then it must be a parallel surge protector.

If I misread that I apologize.

Otherwise, my original statements stand.  Claims of a NASA or KGB background don't change the physics of a circuit.

Richard Gray, who makes the best parallel system I know of, still can't do surge protection. A surge would have come and gone before it responded.  It is however very effective at smoothing out AC irregularities, such as by dimmer switches and motors, neighbors coming home, etc.

Best,

Erik
For an in depth technical discussion of series protectin, please see the links on this site.

http://www.brickwall.com/pages/the-worlds-best-surge-protectors

Of course, you can claim anything on the web, but having looked at the Furman units that use this, and examining the claims here, it all adds up. There's no snake oil. Its sound science and deep knowledge of AC circuits in detail.

Best,


Erik
Eric any thoughts on the core i value your input. In your opinion your thinking the pt 2400 furman
then r gray ( which ) ?
Core ??
When you say dedicated line to the room, is this for the system only with no other outlets? Do you know if it is 12 gauge or 10 gauge? If it is 12 gauge, you could run a 10 gauge dedicated line for the amp only, and use the current one for everything else. This would definitely solve the "available flow" issue. I only recommend this because of hearing a definite difference in a friend's system when he upgraded from 12 to 10. As far as the other issue, do you experience anything affecting the sound or a light flicker, etc?