Sources for information and/or advice on dedicated AC lines desired

Hey BDP...again, good luck to you. You certainly got a good number of tips from the members to at least consider.

I wanted to mention PorterPorts as another option for your outlets. I can’t swear these so-called "audiophile" grade outlets make a big difference to the sound vs a cheaper builder’s grade outlet (I never did any A/B testing)...but, neither the Cabledynes or the PorterPorts (i.e., cryo’d outlets from Albert Porter, A’gon member) are that expensive and I’m not an extravagant spender. Anyway, might as well go for something like them given this opportunity you have.

For me, in the lessons learned category...
I have a very modest APC H-10 power conditioner on the middle line. Sources (e.g., CDP, DAC, TT & phono-pre) are plugged into this. Amp (power & pre) go direct to wall outlet(s). During winter, when the heat pump kicks on - even though it’s on the main panel and not on the sub panel for the dedicated lines - there’s enough (momentary voltage drop from the furnace power draw?) that I can hear the APC click on and respond as it is designed to do. I don’t hear any change in the music; the APC intervention is VERY brief...but this is why, if we had the budget and time, I would love to have installed another line from the street to a completely separate panel (not just a sub panel) to power the audio gear. Maybe Whart’s & Folkfreak’s transformer suggestions would fix this without a 2nd line going to the house. Dunno.

If you wanted to spend some big dollars on outlets I'd recommend the following:
Furutech GTX-D Rhodium (R)
Or the new Synergistic Research BLACK UEF Duplex receptacle.

@bdp24 for what it’s worth, I recently completed a similar project. My electrician installed a 20A circuit breaker/line at the bottom of the panel far away from large appliances and anything on a dimmer.

All existing wires and cables exit through the top of the breaker box. For the dedicated line he exited directly through the side of the box with Southwire Romex 10-2 wire.

He kept the wire run completely isolated. The run enters a junction box and two Southwire Romex 10-2 wires then make their way into two Furutech GTX-D (R) wall receptacles.

I have an amp and phono pre occupying the two outlets on the left receptacle and my turntable occupying one outlet on the right receptacle.

Regarding grounding, nothing additional was installed or done. The electrician grounded the line with the existing house ground.

there is a noticeable difference in noise floor, dynamics and less line level noise. These particular outlets take quite a while to break in. Some suggest 600-800 hours.

good luck with your planning/install.

Ghost- I’ve used Albert’s outlets and they are good, in fact, I think he sells them cheaper than some of the standard Hubbells; on the pump snap, yes, I have a pretty large air compressor for my tone arm, and even the smaller one that came with it originally (a 1/2 HP Silentaire) made a NASTY snap through the signal path when the motor kicked in and out. Simply putting it on a dedicated line didn’t eliminate it, neither did an aftermarket device-- a small box-- wired into compressor motor. What saved me was an isolation transformer. No compressor pump snap over the system when that sucker kicks on (and I upgraded to a 1 HP compressor with a 13 gallon tank). You don’t even have to use "audiophile approved" ones- I have several, one is a 240 volt step down that was originally used for my home theatre (which I don’t use anymore for that), but another is a medical grade unit branded by Tripp Lite that has a 15 amp breaker- it hums, but it is my adjacent closet so with soundproofing, you don’t hear it at all. (Right now, i am only running 1 of the 2 motors, so 1/2 horsepower- when that mother kicks on with both motors, it really draws current. Not the kind of thing you normally want anywhere near an audio system).

Hi Whart...is this the Tripp Lite unit you mentioned?

http://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-IS1000-Isolation-Transformer/dp/B00006HPFI

To clarify about what I was describing (hopefully this will be of value to BDP, too) ... it's not an audio related pump but rather the house heating system heat pump coming on and causing a very brief voltage sag that the APC corrects.  Fortunately, no noise is heard through the audio system when this happens.  Funny though, a nearby closet light switch on a totally separate circuit WILL cause a nasty snap audible through the system if it's turned on while the gear is powered up.  Put a piece of tape over the switch as a reminder and I just don't flip it when the system is on.