Spks. wood veneer is drying out.


Could anyone please recommend something to recondition the walnut veneer cabinets of my Snell spks. They are drying out and not sure what to use to condition the wood. I've heard of "Tung Oil" but not sure and would like to get your advise. Many thanks for any and all replies. Bill
128x128kotta
The veneer on your speakers very likely has a factory-applied "varnish" top coat that could be catalyzed conversion type. Even if it is a lesser quality top coat you will not effectively be able to penetrate it with oils. Go to a quality hardware store and inquire about the MinWax line of finishing and wood maintenance products and you may find a good solution. Also purchase a can of Guardsman furniture polish for regular maintenance. Stay away from the stuff sold at the big box hardware stores like Homer Fornsby. And do not ever use Murphy's wax products. Both of these really dry out the wood. If your wood is generally exposed (meaning you do not see a finished top coat) try working a more out of sight area using linseed oil. I sell cabinetry so I am not faking it here. You are welcome to email me if you care to discuss further.
John
Thank-you for all your responses. I believe Snell used the "natural approach" and applied only oils. I do not believe a sealing finish was applied. I appreciate all your advice and will consider all your fine advice.
Bill, Just curious, what leads you to believe the veneer is drying out? What are the symptoms?
I've owned 3 different pairs of speakers that used the natural approach. All of them benefited from the use of oil in conditioning the wood. The signs I saw were dry areas in the finish. Less luster in certain areas and places where the grain of the wood didn't have that almost luminescent quality. After using Scotts lemon oil the luster has returned. I use it atleast once a month to wipe down the speakers. Whether Jayboard agrees with me or not, I know this stuff worked wonders on my speakers.

Good luck Bill
Gmood1, You would be better served using an oil/varnish type oil finish like Watco to rejuvenate the original oil finish as it would be closest to what the manufacturer used. The reason you have to use the "lemon oil" as frequently as you do is because it's nothing more than an oily petroleum distillate (no lemon oil at all) and it evaporates rather quickly. With a Watco type finish you'd only have to rejuvenate it every couple of years or so and you'd save time and money.

Jayboard's comments are solid and his suggestion to use tung oil will work nicely too.