Looking to add a subwoofer to my 2 channel system. Problem arises in that there is only one location give or take 2 feet in all directions where the subwoofer can be. 

Very large untreated open concept room. 14 ft tray ceilings, about 30 ft by 20 ft. Hardwood floors. Serious WAF. Maybe one day will have dedicated room but for now should I wait, make it "work" with eq, accept the limitations of the location, hope it works?

Suggestions please. Maybe a particular brand addresses this.

Modwright integrated, vintage Thorens, Innuos streamer,  Kef R3. Kef LS50. Usher 530. Watkins.  Ryan R2. 



I also have KEF speakers and wanted a subwoofer. My solution was to put an SVS 2000 Pro on the back wall, about six feet from my listening spot.  Their software is great and it sounds seamless.

All the best.

I have two subs, but typically only keep one hooked up mainly due to WAF, and I also have very limited placement options. My room is 20x 24 x9, and opens into another large area with a vaulted ceiling, so there’s some cubic footage in play. I prefer both subs hooked up, but one sounds better in my situation than none. It’s a treat when I run both subs and pull the speakers out where they sound best. You can buy a decent sub from Dayton or Monoprice for < $200 if you want to experiment before sinking more money into it.

Even low cost subs like the Dayton have variable low pass crossover frequency options, separate gain, and two phase options that help give some options to dial in the bass to suit your needs, even without many placement options. I run mine from the amps into the high level inputs, keep the low pass crossover frequency very low to avoid directionality and resonance issues, and keep the gain very low so it just augments the bass from the mains. I don’t "feature" the sub. It's subtle... I barely hear it except for on heavier bass passages.

I have a KEF KF92 subwoofer in a room similar to yours. I also got their remote transmitter for it so I can locate it where it sounds best, which for me ended up being in the middle of the room, behind the sofa. This has different curve settings for different locations in a room: Corner, wall, room. Good starting points. 

This is my third sub, and I am very happy with it compared to the others. I see that someone recommended the SVS 3000 Micro. I had a pair of them for a short while, then sold them. They didn't go very low in my room and I couldn't get a good setup with them. Though I will say SVS is a good company and the fit and finish of the Micros was excellent.

Thanks ditusa...

Very good article that seems to detail and explain well my own bad experience with a SINGLE subs added to my system... I sold it because i was not prepared for this task at all ... :) In the mean time i learned room acoustic and i discovered why connecting a single subs is a bad idea most of the times if done without any help....

Now my headphone goes under 30 hertz i dont need subs...



This article is very good :


Understand that the largest percentage of all audio issues is room acoustics. You cannot put a great speaker in a marble shower stall and expect it to sound good - it will sound like a speaker in a marble shower stall. Room acoustics itself is a very complex set of interactions of physics and perception.

Sadly, there are many instances where manufacturers or individuals skew the relevant terms and confuse people. For example, beware of (and be aware of) the dangerous term "Room Tuning". You CANNOT tune a room using an "equalizer". You are tuning THE SOUND SYSTEM with the equalizer - the room is still the same. REAL room tuning means anything from sticking pillows in the corners to rebuilding the room (perhaps correctly) from scratch, incorporating a set of acoustic devices and parameters which sometimes seem nebulous but get a desired result. Because of this nebulosity of all the acoustics terminology (not to mention the international differences in measuring techniques, terminology, and ’scales’, which are substantial) it is often difficult for an end user (and many audio professionals, for that matter) to be able to mentally visualize just what a room without standing waves will sound like, or a room which is so rolled off that the high frequencies seem to "fall to the floor". »


What he wrote is so true, understanding it i rejected the idea of using an electronical equalizer first and instead designed my own room MECHANICAL tuning... First i used passive treatment with a balance between diffusion/reflection/absorption... After I created my audio room with one hundred Helmholtz resonators tuned incrementally on 6 months period around my listening position and the speakers ... I called that : "a mechanical equalizer"... The results were stunning.... No speakers at any price can beat the room...And a good room easily beat most of the times any speakers at any price in a non dedicated room...


By the way half of the issues and problems with headphones are related to the shell acoustic relation with the driver and the acoustic content of the shell or lack of...Something headphone marketing never adress, because to sell a product you dont point to the problems but to false solutions : improved driver with a thinner membrane for example... It is not enough to have a good driver, all my past 9 headphones had good drivers, none had acoustic content and device  in the shell/cup, save one... The only one i like... AKG K340...