Sumiko tonearm rewire

About to dwell into rewiring my Sumiko tonearm. Just a few points before I start, if somebody went through this ordeal before.
The wire thickness - 34 AWG will be best? I am looking for 'warm' sound so I guess I should look at copper.
The wire insulation - what is better - silk or enamel?
Any particular solder brand I should be using?

I am not sure if it possible to take off the wand completely in other words to disassemble it, I can see that it is possible to get the wire through without taking it off, but on the other hand if I can take it off I would rather take it off, otherwise I may risk damaging the wire insulation.
Thank you
Sorry, forgot to ask you - the 44 awg wire you mentioned - that was not litz wire, was a single thread, correct?
Thank you
Sorry for the delay.

Litz wire can be found on ebay. PLease remember each tiny strand is coated. This must be removed. If you have a solder pot, great, if not - get some solder on the end of your iron tip, rub it across the ends of the wire, repeat. You will see that with each sucessive pass, less and less 'stuff' comes off the wire. This will be evidenced by black bubbling stuff on the end of the solder iron. Clean iron after each pass, add solder to the end before each 'clean'. Be sure to 'clean' with the lead free silver solder. No use skimping on solder when our cartidges are thousands.

I use straight 'magnet wire'. Go to any transformer rewiring service in your area. They have spools of the stuff. Please remember that magnet wire is very pure. It may not be 6 nines, but there are those that think this hole 6+ nines copper is a load of kaka. If you are a true lunatic, I mean Audiophile, get your final choice 'cryoed'.

I am using a single thread per run of 44 awg magnet wire. This makes 4 wires in total. That was obvious, but I thought I better make sure.

My Allnic H3000V phono pre does not have balanced inputs, that's why I am using the WBT Nextgen. When I am using the Atma-Sphere MP1's phono input,I use the Neutrik.
Wow! Never imagined the coating must be removed from litz wires. Please forgive my ignorance - why? OI thought the idea of litz strands was to minimize the 'skin' effect, but if coating taken off you got one thicker conductor? Or the flow will still follow each strand? My high school was a way back, I can't say how magnetic fields will behave when coating is taken off...
Now, with 46/10 litz you mentioned before - do we clean all 10 strands?.
I found a few places, I am sure I will find more but a few that just happened to make if first, would appreciate if you could share an opinion.
This one is 0.061 mm, enamel and silk on copper, not litz:
And here is litz:
- 81 (!) strands of 0.025 mm, silk covered. Do you think (as I am true Audiophile yet:) it will make sense to take 4 strands out of the 81 to make a single wire, and do it 3 times to get another 3? Have not seen any silk coated litz anywhere else yet...
Best Regards
Wait till you see how small a 46awg wire is. You can hardly see it.

Once you have cleaned off the ends, at both ends, you now have to start testing with an Ohm meter. This is to see which strands are which. Leave an entire evening for this.
Hi, wonder if I will need the flux, never solded wires these thin, or the using the Mundorf I wouldn't need that? They say the wire does contain the flux but I wonder if I's better to apply some of that? I am curious to know if there are any drawback in USING flux rather than not...
Thank you