Thiel Owners


Guys-

I just scored a sweet pair of CS 2.4SE loudspeakers. Anyone else currently or previously owned this model?
Owners of the CS 2.4 or CS 2.7 are free to chime in as well. Thiel are excellent w/ both tubed or solid-state gear!

Keep me posted & Happy Listening!
jafant
@yyzsantabarbara1  I bought 3.7s in 2012 and had kids in 2013 and 2014.  Audio dropped way down on my priority list and I had them in several far from ideal spots.  I had them right next to each other for a while and they sounded great.  You don't get much in the way of imaging but otherwise great.  I had them nearfield for a while on each side of my desk with my head a couple of feet in front of them but way off axis.  Still great.  I worked from home for a few years and I was always amazed at how good they sounded in this far from ideal situation.  I couldn't believe how well the image held together.  From a placement standpoint the coax is magic.
From a placement standpoint the coax is magic.
I agree. I have had a few speakers with the tweeter and mid on the same driver unit and it has always made placement much easier. I am slightly off center in my seating. With my KEF LS50's (also a similar type of driver) I had to make an adjustment on my preamp's balance to give the far speaker a bit more juice. With the CS3.7 I set the balance to 0 and it sounds great. The sweet spot is bigger than most speakers. The KEF Blade is also like that with a big sweet spot.

Sounds like you are a music fan. When my kid was under 2 years my office/audio room was in a laundry room. I would work and listen while a washer and or dryer was going full blast next to me usually washing kids stuff. Still enjoyed music.
Unsound and Tom. As you know the 3.5 individual drivers are all above the 5 ohm across the whole range and combined stay above 4 ohms. Makes it very suitable for tri amping or bi amping. I would guess that bi amping the bass and mid-tweeter with one amp would be better then using the amp in serial configuration for all drivers. Is that consistent with your experience? 
Thielrules - it all depends. A very big deal is running out of power. The Adcom and Benchmark have overload LEDs. Listening at 95dB peaks at listening position, the Benchmark overloads consistently in stereo with one amp channel driving the woofer and the other the mid-tweeter. The bass amp can be bridged and its input sensitivity reduced to match the stereo upper amp. The upper stereo amp then becomes the overload limit, so it also must be used in bridged mono. Clipping is unacceptable. The Adcom at twice the power is better, but marginal on the mid-tweeter. It has no input sensitivity selector and therefore in stereo it cannot be easily gain-matched to the bridged woofer. So no go for tri-amping. Classe DR9 has similar power to AHB, so I assume it clips even though it doesn’t give LED proof. If you had 4 amps and could dedicate one to each woofer and one each to the two mid-tweeters, that is theoretically better than a single bridged amp to all three drivers, at twice the amp/cable expense. I am personally at peace with a Bridged Benchmark driving each channel with 3 separate cable runs or two runs: one to the woofer and another to the mid-tweeter.

To your question of best configuration - Because low impedance loads cause higher distortion in normal (non AHB) class A/B amps, I would prefer a stereo amp with one channel for the woofer and the other for the mid-tweeter. Those amps would need to be a few hundred watts minimum per channel into 4 ohms in order to stay clean. My amps in my space don’t deliver the goods satisfactorily in stereo mode.

Let’s do some history. As you know, the CS3 was set-up for bi-amping / bi-wiring. It separated the tweeter from the rest of the signal because the equalizer boosted the bass which included contribution from both the midrange and woofer, so they couldn’t be segregated to different amps. Audible improvement was gained by separating the tweeter. But the preponderance of users chose small SET or tube amps for the tweeter with no consistent way to gain-match the low frequency amp. Solving those variables would have required a different kind of dealer. Jim assessed that we didn’t have that expertise in the field to his satisfaction and removed the bi-amp /bi-wire option.

The scene is different today in that remaining Thiel users are likely to commit to getting it right or staying on the sidelines. It is tricky business, especially in the absence of clipping lights and with uncompressed and/or otherwise very dynamic music. Underpowering makes distortion and distortion fries drivers. Be careful.