I owned the Model 10/A for about seven years before upgrading to the 30/12.
The 10 is indeed an extremely well designed, engineered and reliable
turntable. I tested the speed on a KAB and it was very, very slightly fast, but
then I replaced the belt and it was back to the correct speed. My motor
controller was an old version that did not have speed adjustability. I think the
new motor controller is like the new ones on the 20/30 models that are
adjustable by pushing the front panel buttons, but you might want to confirm
this with the dealer.
The first upgrade I did was to replace the stock cable with a used Hovland
MusicGroove 2 phono cable for about $600. Then I replaced the 10 arm (309)
with an SME V. I did find that cartridge loading and phono gain were critical
to getting an open, dynamic and tonally balanced sound. Also, I had a MINT
LP protractor custom made for my arm/cartridge which gave better results
than the stock SME protractor.
Some describe this table, and SME in general, as sounding overly warm, dark
and a bit uninvolving. I had a very different experience during my ownership.
I found the Model 10 (and my new 30/12) to be very stable, solid and neutral
platforms for the arm and cartridge. These turntables were (are) the
foundation of my system.
I should add that to really make the most of Model 10/A, one should
properly isolate it on a very good platform. This isolation and the extra mass
of the Models 20/30 are what separate those designs from the Model 10. I
first used a Townshend Seismic Sink and then a Vibraplane ultimately with a
130lb steel ballast plate. Performance improved quite dramatically especially
in detail retrieval and bass articulation and impact.
If you can push your budget, I'd ask your dealer if you can get a credit for the
stock arm towards a model V arm or put the money into a good isolation
platform. You will then have, IMO, an excellent turntable and a very good
value.
The 10 is indeed an extremely well designed, engineered and reliable
turntable. I tested the speed on a KAB and it was very, very slightly fast, but
then I replaced the belt and it was back to the correct speed. My motor
controller was an old version that did not have speed adjustability. I think the
new motor controller is like the new ones on the 20/30 models that are
adjustable by pushing the front panel buttons, but you might want to confirm
this with the dealer.
The first upgrade I did was to replace the stock cable with a used Hovland
MusicGroove 2 phono cable for about $600. Then I replaced the 10 arm (309)
with an SME V. I did find that cartridge loading and phono gain were critical
to getting an open, dynamic and tonally balanced sound. Also, I had a MINT
LP protractor custom made for my arm/cartridge which gave better results
than the stock SME protractor.
Some describe this table, and SME in general, as sounding overly warm, dark
and a bit uninvolving. I had a very different experience during my ownership.
I found the Model 10 (and my new 30/12) to be very stable, solid and neutral
platforms for the arm and cartridge. These turntables were (are) the
foundation of my system.
I should add that to really make the most of Model 10/A, one should
properly isolate it on a very good platform. This isolation and the extra mass
of the Models 20/30 are what separate those designs from the Model 10. I
first used a Townshend Seismic Sink and then a Vibraplane ultimately with a
130lb steel ballast plate. Performance improved quite dramatically especially
in detail retrieval and bass articulation and impact.
If you can push your budget, I'd ask your dealer if you can get a credit for the
stock arm towards a model V arm or put the money into a good isolation
platform. You will then have, IMO, an excellent turntable and a very good
value.