Tonearm rewiring

Hi folks,
Learned the hard way yesterday that you must be very - very - careful with the leads heading into your cartridge. As I was trying to unhook a Goldring Elite, I stripped one of the wires out of the clips.
Not good, but I was thinking before that of getting my tonearm rewired. I have a Music Hall MMF 7.3 with a Pro-Ject 9cc tonearm.
This development accelerates my timing.
Who's good out there? Who would you recommend for rewiring? I did a search and some results are older, so I'm looking for some current information.
Appreciate your advice, as I drown my sorrows in a good drink.

Rewiring a tonearm is not a casual endeavour as Matt Miller suggests. It does require a specific type of wire for both good conductivity and flexibility where it passes from the arm through the pivot and through the plinth to prevent it from causing torsional mechanical resistance to the motion of the tonearm. Also, the “p” clips that another member suggested are not suitable for this task, as they provide very tiny contact area, and are meant for applications where precision is not a requirement. 

Small-signal devices usually benefit from litz wire, where each conductor (strand) is individually insulated with a material that sublimates at soldering temperature. In my case, I’ve rewired tonearms with KAB-USA’s silicone-jacketed litz wire, which is extremely flexible. A challenge with silicone insulation is that it doesn’t readily melt when exposed to a hot soldering iron, so a 33AWG wire stripper is required, along with great care to avoid cutting any of the 37 ultra-fine strands.

With the wire successfully stripped, it must then be tinned before attempting to solder to the clips and the interconnect. For this task, I first dip the stripped end in rosin flux, the use a solder pot to simultaneously remove the litz insulation and tin the wire. Finally, I use a small amount of flux and solder the tonearm wire to each clip with 63/37 solder and then apply clear heat-shrink tubing (never use electrical tape) to reduce stress on the connection.

This method requires a very fine tip soldering iron (I use a Weller WESD-51) and a good magnifier lamp, along with a set of “helping hands” which are alligator clips attached with articulated arms to a weighted base.
The best way to wire a cartridge is to mount the cartridge to the arm  with the screws first.  Then using your fingers (not long nose pliers) the clips and be easily pushed on (but don't push them on all the way). Doing it this way, the tool won't slip and tear off the clips.
Just got my re-wired Rega RB300 back from Michael Wharton at BritAudio (teatime here on AG).  Excellent work, super fast turnaround, and it sounds excellent.   Highly recommended for this arm!