Turntables: 2 Tonearms. What do you Have or Know About?


Turntables: 2 Tonearms. What do you Have or Know About?


I think it would be interesting/fun to create a list of 2 Tonearm TT’s

(2 arms or potential for 2 arms or more)

Links to Virtual Systems; Links to ‘For Sale’; Links to Manufacturers Sites; Photos


To Insert Photos, here’s how:

How to Insert Photos in Audiogon Posts


I’m an old man (74), U can do it.

Hopefully this makes sense

INSERT Photo in an Audiogon Post

  1. Write some yap about your subject
  2. Open a new Window
  3. Find a Photo already uploaded to the web
  1. Yours (my flower)
  2. Any photo (DBX Speakers)
  1. Popup menu appears
  2. ‘copy image address’
  1. Back to Your Audiogon Post
  1. Click in Top bar: 6th icon from left: (mountains with moon)
  2. Popup window appears
  3. Paste URL in the box
  4. Size is automatically inserted by the software
  5. OK
  6. SAVE


My 3 Arm Turntable: Became the Jewel of my System, 8th Photo Here



How did this happen? Covid Times, I upgraded eveything).

I listen to a lot of Jazz, both Stereo and Mono.

After learning here the advantages of a true mono cartridge, I wanted a second tonearm for a MONO cartridge ‘ready to go’. Got big plinth made for 2 arms, JVC VICTOR PL-2. Stereo cartridge on right, Mono cartridge rear.

Then I resurrected a MM Cartridge (new stylus from Jico). Squeezed an 'illegitimate' third tonearm on.

Right long arm is MC (fixed/difficult adjustments);

Rear Arm is MM (removable headshell/easy and quick adjustments of Tracking Force, Anti-Skate and VTA).

Left side arm MONO (fixed/difficult adjustments)





My knowledge stopped at ’the headshell come’s off’. Do you have a link to a preferred removable headshell?

Removable/Fixed Cartridge: I always consider, the SME removable headshell was present all the while they made their superior reputation. Insisting on fixed cartridges (on the arms of so many of todays turntables) seems an un-necessary limitation. Best headshells/fittings provide easy azimuth adjustment, burying shims 6 feet deep.

Same thing with today’s ’missing’ features: balance, tone controls, tape loops, ’loudness’. All the great stuff made their reputations with a LOT of features, I’ve tried the ’simplicity’ ’straight wire with gain’ thing, gimme the features, modern ’defeatable’ a nice feature. Lack of a BALANCE control seems absurd, and remote balance is a wonderful thing I don’t want to live without. Defeatable if desired.

Same thing regarding LEVEL controls on speakers, to adjust output for ’best’ in that space, in that particular location in that space (often less than ideal). What difference if an owner get’s it ’wrong’ with his choice, his settings, in his space/location (or the wifey’s location), it sounds best to him. Perhaps needed adjustments for his individual hearing variations, and diminishing of highs while aging. Controls, simple tripod mics, CD test tones ought to be provided as standard. Consider the sophisticated adjustments provided for video systems.

Without level controls, there is no way my friends would prefer listening here. Without level controls, there is no way my AR-2ax’s would sound soooo good, best than I ever had in my office. I’ve got one wall close left, open space right side, adjustments imperative.

I digress.

Most of the time I forget I can play 2 (or 3) arms at the same time, simply play one, lift it, switch SUT input, lower the other arm/cartridge. Of course, perfection is lost by having different tonearm wires and cables for each arm, two OEM din, main arm my choice of Ortofon, thru VPI junction box I might add. one re-wired using VAS's chosen wire and solder

For more careful comparisons, a volume match is important, I mess about, make a temporary pencil mark at my amp’s volume control, not measured, just sounds about right to the two of us.

Re a hinged dust cover: they can be “lifted off”, which is the first thing I did with the covers for the TT101 and Denon DP80. The hinges come apart via a spade/slot joint. You can use the cover either way or not at all.

The TT801 has a greater reputation for unreliability than does the TT101, possibly owing to its greater use of ICs which were needed to create internal space for the vacuum plumbing.



I have read off avoids containing/reflecting microphonics, so I prefer off, and in my setup, up, even though clear acrylic, would block the large window behind. 

All the JVC Large Plinths dust covers are big/thick/heavy, no way to keep up or on anyway.

I put felt buttons on its side I put down on the floor, and felt on the cabinet edge I lean it on, as I said, a nearby out of sight designated place for it while playing is good.

There is not a Link as such, the design is Bespoke Made.

If you do look across the years of SME Designs since their 30xx Models were released.

The insertable removeable Headshells used on the 30xx range, (the design mimicked by many Brands), as a design, are  inserted into an additional connected fastened into the Wand. Once seated the removable part is tightened in place by a Threaded Ferrule. I won't say too much on this as a design for a role where two parts are connected to the end of the Wand, especially where a rigid coupling being in place is the ideal.

This earlier design from SME was not transferred over to the Companies M2 xx Design. This design used for M2 xx, is robust and has a mounting method that has the Wand as the internal, with the Headshell clamping down onto the sleeve that is concealing the Wand and serving as a means to increase the OD over a proportion of the length of the Wand. This still remains a Two Part Connection for the Headshell, but has the design incorporated to enable a rigid clamping of the Headshell to the Sleeve. I am giving the benefit of any doubt to the Sleeve and suggest it is a very tightly coupled part, and an adequately tight clamp fastening will finish the connection nicely.

The later of the SME Removable Headshell Designs was with a increased substance and designed to directly couple onto a Tapered Wand.

I don't see the Headshell Connection used for the SME 309, IV and V having any potential to not be rigidly coupled, as long as the Clamp Fastening is adequately tightened.

For the two later designs of removable Headshell, my gut has always been toward using a Torque Setting at the time of securing the Headshell, as this would give a consistency to the mechanical interface.  

 In relation to my earlier post. I was given demo's from the same TA. Encountering it  evolve from a version of the SME Bayonet Headshell, to a Bespoke Interference Fit Design. I made the impression this made known earlier and it was very impressive.

An additional experience I had at a later date, was when the same TA, was using PC Triple C Wand Wire. This Wire Type is the same Wire used by SAEC in their TORT TA.

I am a advocate of a particular wire type, which is PC Triple C.

It has been experienced in use in my own system and others over time.

I was always looking for a diameter to suit Wand Wire but finding it with a sheath was not easy.

I learnt the PC Triple C Wire is in use in a SAEC TA, and this was very encouraging.

In the end after many investigations a suitable sheathed wire was discovered, with an ideal OD.

I was demo'd this Wire, used on the very familiar to myself TA and System. The experience proved to be something very special. SAEC has got it correct I am sure, and my encouraging a friend to investigate and produce a version was the best call I have been instrumental in encouraging to be realised for a very long time.