VPI Classic/Clear Audio Maestro Wood Question

Follow Up Note:

I rechecked my adjustments using different methodology and tools. I rechecked cartridge alignment and overhang using a recently acquired VPI jig rather than my Dennison protractor. Although both tools incorporate the Baerwald (sp?) geometry, the VPI jig enabled me to make more accurate adjustments. The VPI jig lays flatter on the platter and the brightly painted alignment grid is easier to use as a reference. I also used my bubble level in a different way to check VTA. It turns out that additional adjustments were required, especially VTA -- the tone arm had to be raised quite a bit to achieve the right SRA/VTA.

I rechecked the cantilever alignment after I made the adjustments described above. Interestingly, because I raised the tone arm to achieve better SRA/VTA, I actually had a better "look-see" of cantilever alignment. I believe the cantilever is pretty straight. It might always have been ok, it's just that because the tone arm was hanging so close to the platter, it was hard to get a good look at its position relative to the cartridge body.

Moreover, consistent with other posts in this forum, I believe the various adjustments affected the sonics somewhat. In particular, the music playback is more airy and less bassy. Imaging is correlatively improved as well. I'm still fine tuning SRA/VTA, but the adjustments are now pretty small -- on a "tweak" magnitude of change. Overall, an improvement!

Good light is important to setting up a TT. Make sure your TT is level before setting up the cartridge. A good alignment protractor is helpful as is a good digital scale, VPI setup tools, in my opinion, are a rough estimate of a set up. To set azimuth on a VPI arm the arm has to be balanced (set to proper weight) after setting the aluminum rod on the arm or the weight added by the aluminum rod can skew the results. A bubble weight can crush the cartridge. After setting azimuth with the rod it's best to visually check the cantilever for azimuth.
From your OP I think you misunderstand anti-skate:--"Ordinarily, I would have thought the cantilever was pulling slightly inward towards the spindle because of excessive anti-skating force, but as stated above, I am NOT using the anti-skating set-up"-- When antiskate is applied it prevents the arm from being excessively pulled to the spindle. On a VPI TT the external anti-skate rig is probably not recommended but one twist of the tone arm wire might be a good idea.
It takes time, a long time, to get it perfect.

Mjglo, Thanks for your comments.

I agree 100% with what you said, particularly using the bubble level to adjust azimuth. Hence, I set the azimuth with the level using the tonearm lift to gently lower the arm to just touch the record a tad. I then checked the level at the point of contact and determined which way to rotate the tonearm weight. The process was iterative and a pain in the as* because the adjustments were just a hair touch and everytime I screwed with azimuth, I affected VTF. FWIW, I agree that using the bubble level could damage the cantilever unless extreme care is used, but it's inherently much more accurate than using the aluminum rod. The rod is useful to do an "eyeball-double check" of azimuth. You're right . . . it takes time and patience.

BTW, as I mentioned above, I do not use the external AS rig, but as you said, just a little twist of the arm wire is plenty.

It has taken time, but it was fun!

Another simple method to fairly accurately eyeball azimuth angle, and will be free of cost, is use a thin mirror to set the Stylus upon, and the symmetry of the Stylus, and the reflection of the Stylus in the mirrror should be noticeable if it is off.

What you're looking to achieve-see, is a precisely symmetrical hourglass shape.

And the Mirror can be something as simple as a CD you don't much care about, to set the Stylus upon. Neither Glass, or Plastic will hurt the Stylus.

This view of the Stylus from the exact front of the cartridge can be enhanced by the use of a Jeweler's Loupe, or a magnifier.

Glad to hear things are getting better with the set-up! Mark

Azimuth can only be ball parked by levelling. I'm not saying you're wrong to do it that way, but ultimately there are better ways to align the actual stylus with the groove rather than aligning the body. The azimuth adjustment is one for lowest crosstalk. If you have a balance control you can do it by ear and a mono record, preferably a vocal. You can get a test record with tones to set azimuth. These are 1KHz tones in one channel at a time. You adjust it so you have equal output in whichever channel is quiet - balanced. A tech can view the outputs on a scope or a computer screen. You can also buy programs or testers that will help you. Soundsmith has a set-up device for $900 that will do everything but your dishes. Feikert had a program for $350 that you use with your PC. I really don't think they are necessary if you're willing to spend a little extra time. An Analogue Productions test record is $50. Most of the tests require test equipment that only a tech has. You can do azimuth by ear and a balance control, just like a mono record.

Every set-up parameter is interrelated. Sometimes when you make an adjustment, another has to be tweaked. I'm not sure whether you were referring to the back or front of your cantilever being angled. But you have to be sure you're viewing straight on and not at an angle. Your lighting has to be even and not coming from one side or the other. This will effect results. It could easily look different than it really is. If the arm is closer to the spindle than the needle is, you need more anti-skate, and visa versa. Yes, it can change the angle of your cantilever. The thing is, anti-skate requirements vary at different parts of the record and at different groove velocity. So you should find a setting that sounds reasonable for what you normally listen to. Skating force is very real and to think otherwise is deluding yourself. I have no experience with a VPI arm, maybe you always have some anti-skate?

You might want to consider Soundsmith to re-tip your Virtuoso. For $350 you can get a ruby cantilever/micro stylus. I'm sure this will outperform the stock stylus. It will probably better the Maestro. It appears to me that all the CA MMs share the same generator, at least the top ones. Inductance and resistance are identical.
Regards,